Hi.

Nickel was always considered a "budget" plating process in comparison to chrome. The reason being is that chrome is a third leg in the plating process -which basically goes something like this:

1.Base metal is plated with copper

2.Copper is plated with nickel

3.Nickel is plated with chromium

So, obviously the chrome plating is an additional step and thus more costly. Also, chrome is MUCH harder and more corrosion resistant/oxidation resistant than nickel.

As far as your '65's being nickel -It's not out of the question, I suppose. Several people prefer(ed) the LOOK of nickel so I suppose that, IF it were offered as an option in the catalogs back then, then someone would have ordered a kit that way.

Do you think it would add value to the drum or take away from it? Also my bass hoops are pretty chipped up, should i paint them back to black and keep the inlays in tact, or should i leave them how they are?

My guess would be that it would be slightly lower in value than a chrome facsimile...but, it's difficult to say. It's very possible that there is someone looking for an all-nickel hardware kit out there -in which case, it could earn a higher value. It just depends on the market on any given day.

Practically speaking, nickel is more difficult to maintain for the aformentioned reasons.

Beyond that, it's all just a guessing game without some pictures to look at.

Ludwig used nickle hardware up to about 1965. I think by 1966 everything was all chrome. I would definately leave the drum set with it's original hardware. There are many cleaners available that will polish that nickle back to a nice shiny look. Some people really like nickle as it gives off a real vintage vibe.

I have repainted bass drum hoops many times. I don't see any problem with it and it makes the drum set look 100 times better. I usually go outside and hang the hoops on a tree branch and spray paint from there. I use blue painters tape to mask off the inlay and sometimes the hoops need two coats of paint. Would love to see pics.

-Kurt

Sounds good Kurt! I think I wil paint these hoops then put the pics up when everything is put back together. I would to see what everyone thinks and what people think I should be able to sell them for. Mike

What kind of spray paint did you use, Kurt?

I want to do this to my Ludwig bass drum.

John

Sory to hijack this thread. I seen no response, so thought I'd comment. Probably the best quality spray in a can would be Krylon High Gloss Black. Like Johnny Bench used to say in the commercial, no runs, no drips, no errors!

Careful light sanding should be done to insure a good bond with the fresh paint, making sure to stay away from those inlays with the sandpaper. Any deep gouges could be filled with a body putty (Bondo), and sanded smooth. (I'll probably get slapped for this, saying that the Bondo will kill the natural wood tone! lol)

I've never been a lover of that blue painter's tape. You're guaranteed bleed-through onto the Inlay from capillary action, and this is something you want to avoid at all costs, otherwise your job will surely look amateurish, and poorly done.

Better to perhaps buy a good tape from a Auto Paint shop for specially painting stripes-designs on cars, and one can also even use just regular Scotch Cellophane Tape to get a super clean sharp mask, without getting paint on the inlay.

Would be also wise to use a wipe with a prep-solvent, and final wipe with a tack cloth.

Just spray enough to get a good gloss, and preferably do it where you won't get lots of dust while it dries.

Krylon is usually dry to the touch within an hour's time, and can then be handled.

Let fully dry for a good 24-36 hours, then wax with product of your choice. Mark

Sorry for the late reply. Sounds like Mark has the answer.