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Need help with european vintage drum ID

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Yes , that is the measurement, I need. 377. I will measure some old heads and see if I have any that would fit. The new Trixon heads , I just had made are 379mm o.d. I do have a set of 6 lug snare hoops that are 360+ mm . They are the so-called triple flange type with the top flaring out. They would fit the drum you have and might receive the heads too. I will check.

Posted on 12 years ago
#51
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From calfskin

You may have to figure out a way of attaching the plastic to the fleshhoops with a combination of glue and some sort of fastener, like tacks or staples. It would all be quite experimental.------- Calf heads are perfectly sensible -----since every drummer up until about 1960 used them and many continued after. Yes, they break---- and when I play hard

Hi Phil and Irod.

This is my today's job in accordance to my previous explanations - a new calf skin head for 10" tom.

I've made it from old broken 16" head. No troubles with skin - pail of water plus clothespins -- no more devices... :)

Cheers,

George.

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Posted on 12 years ago
#52
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So. I went through all of the heads and left over hoops, that I have that are oversize.

The Trixon hoops are slightly more spreading in the skirt section , so will take a head a little bit bigger than 377mm. I did however find one head with a very thin hoop, that is only 378mm. With a small amount of filing you can probably make it fit. It is a fairly thin mylar head, similar to a Remo Diplomat.

I also have one thin hoop,without a head that is a little over 360mm I.D. and will fit over a 360mm shell snugly and about 373mm O.D. It could be used to mount a head for the bottom of your drum.

Posted on 12 years ago
#53
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Hey guys,

Long time no update. I managed to clean all the rusty screws with the help of a die. I just simply threaded them all the way to the end while lubricated with oil and they work very fine now. I found out I could also use a bottoming tap for the lugs, the threading is sloppy here & there.

I have removed the re-rings and all the stuff from the shell and i`m planning to clean them of mold very soon. This should have been a priority, though... my lazyness could cost me...

I have been thinking intensely about the fate of the hardware. After i get all the rust away, i should crome or nickel plate it again, but i cannot afford any of those. I also think the hardware would look better if it would be gloss white. What do you guys think? I`d say it fits the blue sparkle really good and it`s also waay cheaper and easier to do than re-chroming.

Calfskin, i really appreciate your help and i am grateful for it, but i wouldn`t worry about heads until i actually bring the drums to a condition when i can actually put heads on them and start tuning them. So far, they are still not in that much of a good condition... There`s still a lot to do.

I`ll kep you updated with the progress and post some pics when i have something significant.

Razvan

Posted on 12 years ago
#54
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Just keep me posted Razvan. I'll still have heads floating around here and they are so light, I think the postage from Canada would be pretty low.

I also have been doing some work on older Trowa drums and maybe made a discovery , of benefit to you. It seems that the shell measurement 360mm became a defacto standard----likely due to the presence of heads made to fit Dresdner and it's competitors. My guess is that as companies in other East European countries started making drums, they took advantage of the head supply from East Germany , so they copied that size. Trixon , being from West Germany began with the same size but somehow got to the slightly bigger 363 mm so heads made for Trixon are just slightly too big to fit into a Trowa profiled hoop. Heads made for Trowa will fit Trixon ,though and will also fit your drums. I'm sure there are old Trowa heads around your neck of the woods ,somewhere.

As far as the hardware. I have some old East German stuff that has lost it's Nickel and when the base metal is polished up it looks pretty good. Some of the older German drums(around 1950) actually had polished cast aluminum parts(hoops, for sure) and, they look reserved but really good. You could try that.

Posted on 12 years ago
#55
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Good news everyone!

My dad saw me struggling with cleaning the rusty FT hoop and brought me this Doina snare drum out of nowhere. He said he got it "for parts", so I can take the hoops for the floor tom but i`d rather use them on the snare. This drum is in a much better condition than the others, the masonyte is fine and stronger and except the hoops, there are no rusty parts.

Unfortunately it also has some downsides: the strainer is broken (missing most of it) and the bearing edges are very poorly and unevenly cut. I am not planning to re-cut them cause it`s gonna take a lot of time but i`m just saying. Also i`m missing 3 tension rods and 2 lugs so the snare is not complete. I`ll see what i can do about this.

The wrap has a small crack and is a bit scratched but it`s not that bad.

So far i have striped the shell, cleaned it (when it came it was so dirty you couldn`t see its color) and cleaned the other parts and reassembled it. Here are some pics. The hoops and damping mechanism are not in the picture.

I have also measured the snare: it is 370 mm as well. It is a bit out of round (the biggest diameter is 371 and the smallest 355)

No news for the floor tom, except the fact that I re-glued the splitting re-rings. They are nice and solid now.:cool:

[IMG]http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/6600/dscn1746.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6773/dscn1747t.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on 12 years ago
#56
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Hi Razvan,

Really not bad news! --- Go forward!

George.

Posted on 12 years ago
#57
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Hm. A friend of mine offered me a 22" bass drum head, made of mylar. Is there any way i could chop that into a 19" bass drum head for my Doina BD? I think it would be possible but i`d have to "fix" the mylar with some king of glue on the flesh hoops. I just don`t have any other options, unfortunately, i didn`t manage to find calfskin heads...

Maybe George can help me out?

Soon some pics with the updates.

Posted on 12 years ago
#58
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Of course it would be possible to put the 22" mylar onto the 19" wooden hoop but attaching it would be a laborious project. Normally , you need 2-3" per side of extra material to effect decent lapping and the plastic won't adhere without some way of fixing it.. You might be able to get a decent head made up though, by using epoxy glue ( the kind that you mix a resin and a hardener together to use) and 1/4" carpet tacks. Glue a bit, then tack a bit,glue a bit then tack a bit and on and on. You will need a lot of carpet tacks, spaced no more than a cm. apart. The tacks should be put in with the wide dimension of the shaft going with the grain and stagger the location upand down a little to avoid splitting the hoop.

As far as the drum diameter----averaging your measurements, gives 363 or the normal standard size for drums using the standard established in Weissenfels ( Dresdner standard). So, eventually you will come across heads to fit because used ones are out there and they are also currently being made. I do have a set of 6 lug triple flange snare drum hoops that would fit that drum, in immaculate shape. If you are interested in them , it wouldn't cost too much to ship both those and a set of used heads. p.m. me if you want me to look into the shipping and you can have the parts at my cost for them, which is not much.

Posted on 12 years ago
#59
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