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My first restoration project: Slingerland Bass with Ludwig Super Classic Tom + Snare

Posts: 60 Threads: 14

Hey guys! First of all I'd like to say thanks for all the positive feedback I've gotten so far on this forum.

I was at a yard sale last weekend in Wisconsin for a yard sale of really old drums I found on Craigslist. The listing described mostly older Ludwigs, hardware, cases, old and new kits and a few cymbals. No pictures, but since I was in the neighborhood, I figured I'd stop by.

I skimmed over to the older Ludwigs; some were fire damaged, some were water damaged, all were a little rusty. Some drums were missing hoops, logos, tension rods or had already been stripped completely.

I went because I need a gigging drum kit thats less of a pain to lug around than my 1992 Tama Granstar II, and I'm looking for a different sound, so I wanted to check my options in the vintage market. I figured it couldn't hurt to browse.

The owner listed an old Stewart kit for $35 that I figured at the least could be a really cheap gigging kit, but upon inspection I decided it just wasn't worth it- I wanted something more. My friend and I are hoping to record an album soon and I want a unique drum sound- an older, more vintage sound only vintage drums could provide. So I looked around again I struck gold- I found a 13 x 9 Ludwig tom with the mini-classic lugs (didn't really know much about Ludwig apart from the fact that I heard those lugs were indicative of an older high-quality kit) , a 15 x 12 Ludwig WFL marching snare (same lugs) , and a 22 x 14 barren bass drum, 3 ply, with absolutely nothing on it.

I knew relatively little about what I was getting but after some discussion with the guy, he gave me those drums, an old Speedking, and a really rusted out cowbell for $100. I was jumping to joy on the inside!

I didn't realize until I got home and started doing some research that I had actually gotten a really cool deal. The Marching snare is a 1949 Super Classic WFL marching snare that I plan to turn into a floor tom. The rack tom is missing a few tension rods, the muffler and tom mount, but I've found some newer replacement parts that will work well. Finally, the bass drum I identified with a little help on this forum (thanks guys) and I've got the hardware being shipped to me as we speak- this bass drum was totally virgin, no tom mounts, no cymbal attachment, just holes for the lugs and the spurs.

My plan:

[LIST]

[*]Restore all the hardware

[*]Remove the wrap from the high tom

[*]Fix/replace any hardware that needs replacing

[*]Install legs on the marching snare

[*]Send them off to Precision drum and redo the bearing edges (they're a bit rough after all those years, espeically on the bass drum)

[*]Sand down the shells lightly

[*]Do my own custom super high gloss white class glitter lacquer

[*]Install fiberskyn III's on the batters and resoanants of them except a Coated Powerstroke III on the bass drum

[/LIST]

After that, record an epic album!

This post will be my progress diary on each step of the process. I've already started by closing the gaps on the bass drum between the shell and the reinforcement ring following this forum's advice (thanks again guys) and so far it looks good!

I welcome any and all advice to help me fulfill my goal and give these old drums a second chance at life!

Attached pics of the project so far, the bass drum shell, and the gluing of reinforcement hoops with wood glue. More pics to come! P.S thinking of just selling the snare strainer and badge from the 15" x 12" marching snare, because none of the other drums have badges and I don't want them to get jealous. (Ha!) Anyone know what it's worth? And also I don't think I'll be able to use the snares once I redo the bottom bearing edge on it- or could I? so many decisions!

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

You can have a snare with no snare bed, but once you convert to floor tom I'm sure there will be no need to go back. I like your plan from top to bottom, and my only advice is, go go go! :)

Mitch

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 60 Threads: 14

Hello again guys! Here's an update, and a video!

So, here is a good look at today's progress: In short, I stripped all the hardware, removed the wrap from the 13" tom, and conditioned all the wood.

Here is a good look at both of the toms. The first one is a 15" x 12" WFL Ludwig Super Classic Marching Snare drum. The other is an unknown year, but it's a some kind of Super Classic, probably early 60's late 50's (just based on the tag it came with, nothing else. Anyone know what this might be?)

Here is the marching snare:

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/9UqHsSA.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/L9N0T59.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Zvwji9v.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/t5dFWVm.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/d3pQPww.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/yK7lfJ2.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on 8 years ago
#3
Posts: 60 Threads: 14

Removing the heads...

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WhYSZV1.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/peyID29.jpg[/IMG]

Here's the bare shell:

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/4kaskeU.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Da4lggT.jpg[/IMG]

I tried to remove the badge and grommet using a curved bastard file first, but found it was too cumbersome

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/w2XAitK.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on 8 years ago
#4
Posts: 60 Threads: 14

So I switched to a small round file, and worked inside out.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JtJm6Mf.jpg[/IMG]

I followed some previous advice here, took my time, checked frequently, and it did the trick!

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/svagJPQ.jpg[/IMG]

I used a small rachet insert slightly smaller than the hole, and tapped it out with a hammer, slightly bending the thin edges in first as to not scrape up the badge hole any.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/IxD7NLN.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/gzXQJFk.jpg[/IMG]

Success!

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/55A7SmE.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on 8 years ago
#5
Posts: 60 Threads: 14

Next, I did some work on the 13" tom:

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/r6uCCEr.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/QaOijs8.jpg[/IMG]

I looks like someone had frankly done quite a ****ty job lazily smearing what looks like drywall putty to fill in some holes they obviously didn't like.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/uTHGOXy.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/2RhAjW3.jpg[/IMG]

Luckily these holes where drilled out very easily:

http://imgur.com/q66EgIi

Here's the bare shell:

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/oYlYkpd.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on 8 years ago
#6
Posts: 60 Threads: 14

Now for the scary part, here's removing the wrap...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhzoT_7xnEY"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhzoT_7xnEY[/ame]

Here's what I used to clean up the gunk

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/AEtuTde.jpg[/IMG]

Heres what the shell looked like after a quick wipe down. I used some of that stripper afterwards, and after a light sanding I think it turned out ok, albeit looking a little aldente.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/g8oVLEN.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/adL7EY3.jpg[/IMG]

The important thing is it's smooth! After a quick wood conditioning and maybe a little groove-filling next week, (fingers crossed) this will turn out great!

Here is an organic wood conditioner that moisturizes wood and gives it a healthy deep color. I got it at my local farmer's market. I've used it for a few years now and it is a great way to breathe life back into wood and also protect it against the rapid temperature changes we get up here in the Upper Peninsula. It's a combination of beeswax, coconut & vitamin E oil, and (after my request) lemon essential oil. Gotta love the name too:

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ZrRciCC.jpg[/IMG]

A day well done, these shells will now hang in the basement for a week to ensure maximum conditioner penetration. If I get some time off next weekend I'll work on the grooves, filling in unnecessary holes, and maybe start the lacquering!

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/pMYrQcb.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks!

Posted on 8 years ago
#7
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

Great work so far and very entertaining youtube clip ["it's called youtube, mom" haha]

Some might say you shoulda traded the wrapped shell for an already unwrapped one, and I might agree, but you didn't, I understand not wanting to wait around and so......onward and upward!

I think you should go ahead with your lacquering method as planned - I've seen it work beautifully, it's solid on the shell with no issues when finished and looks great. My experimenting with making wrap was largely a function of not having the patience to go the lacquer route. ....well that and curiosity.

Looking forward to your progress on this!

Mitch

Posted on 8 years ago
#8
Posts: 60 Threads: 14

Thanks again :) Now I wonder, should I continue as planned with the clear glass polyurethane or use lacquer? I've never worked with it before but I really want a rock-hard, brilliant white as possible finish. Thoughts?

Posted on 8 years ago
#9
Posts: 2023 Threads: 47

From Boomstick

Thanks again :) Now I wonder, should I continue as planned with the clear glass polyurethane or use lacquer? I've never worked with it before but I really want a rock-hard, brilliant white as possible finish. Thoughts?

Well you made me wonder... I found this thread, and copied here what I think are the two most relevant statements.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?91182-Lacquer-vs-polyurethane

"Lacquer is dramatically harder than poly which means it rubs out much more easily."

"Looking through a good lacquer finish is like looking through glass. Looking through a poly finish is like looking through plastic."

HTH!

Mitch

Posted on 8 years ago
#10
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