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Mardi Gras Finish Ideas

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rogersfreek said;

"I was going to use the turntable idea when I try to replicate the Mardi Gras

finish. I'm going to first experiment with cardboard cylinders, such as the

ones used for concrete forms. They come in different diameters. I'm

first, going to paint the cylinder black, and then "blow" on different shapes

of glitter, found in party/greeting card stores. i have located most of the

glitter shapes needed to reproduce this 1960's look. Has anybody out

there tried this????"

Which got me thinking.......

I think it COULD be done. It will be difficult though. The snags I can see off the top of my head are;

1. It will require way more coats of clear than you think. I know that glitter SEEMS thin but to get a finish that looks and feels completely smooth and buffs to a gorgeous shine it is going to take a lot of coats. You won't be able to sand in between the first bunch of coats either because of the glitter.

2. I would imagine riding the line between "wet enough" to accept and hold the glitter and "dry enough" not to run will be tricky. Having the shell spin horizontally,(as opposed to vertically on a turntable), may help with this, it kind of lets you cheat gravity a little bit. With the shell spinning you will be able to get away with putting a little more clear on per coat without it running. Let it run for 10 minutes or so after you finish spraying, till it is dry enough it won't run.

I can picture it now, shell spinning, spray gun in the right hand, shaker full of glitter in the left. This is starting to sound fun. If you put in your time doing good research and practice and experiment I don't see why you couldn't do it. But it will be a fair amount of work.

Anyone else see any other snags or have any other tips? I would really like to see this!

Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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RF - You're going to have to be pioneer/guinea pig for us, it's never been done that I know of. It'll be the first kit and you'll be the first one, to try it. Post pix along the way.

Good luck! I'll be following progress closely. I'm interested to see how it all comes out. Anything to do with drums and I'm there. It's an endlessly fascinating subject for me.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 13 years ago
#2
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I did a similar project,or should say HELPED with a similar project,on my 70's Rogers Swivo set.I bought it severely scratched up-the previous owner joked about rolling the bass drum down the street after a gig.I stripped the drums and sanded the black coverings with probably 120 on an orbital disc sander,for the primer to bite.Then auto primer(gray) black enamel,then clear enamel with metalflake (in suspension) purchased from the original "metalflake"factory in Amesbury,MA.The nozzle on the spray gun was large enough to pass the metalflake and it spread quite evenly,as long as the can was "rolled"-kept moving,not to allow the metalflake to settle.I understand the set is no longer of any collectible value,but the people that have seen it,including one other forum member think they look pretty damn good.I have no experience with low pressure high volume guns,but a good friend does and touched up that same bass drum,and the results were good.Metalflake cannot be sanded-it must be "buried"in successive coats of straight clear.

Posted on 13 years ago
#3
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I know this process will be difficult, in regards to "building" the finish on

the shell. This is why I'm going to practice using the concrete forms/cylinders

to get the technique down. As the previous member added, there ARE

many layers involved in the finish building process. This does parallel

painting a automotive metalflake-type finish. The cost of using the

cardboard cylinders absorbs the mistake factor, as I establish the

technique. I would be happier if Denmar would just reproduce the

Mardi-Gras wrap, so I wouldn't have to resort to this. By the way, the

M-G wrap that gretsch offers isn't really that close to the original. You

can see this on Steve Maxwell's site. Anybody else going to try this???

Posted on 13 years ago
#4
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I dont know how you are going to apply the glitter but I have used a sealer that can be sprayed pretty heavy without sagging like 8 wet mills. Its called Level Sealer made by M.L. Campbell. It is a post catalist lacquer and you would have to mix it. I dont know how much spraying you do but this is really pretty easy to do. You mix the sealer with care catalyst 10:1. You would have to use a post or pre cat lacquer for a top coat. The biggest problem will be getting the products. It is intended for profesional use, not your home owner do it your selfer stuff. If you can get you hands on it I think it would be exactly what you need. If you go and just start spraying coat after coat of whatever you might be faced with end finish that is too thick and will have problems down the road. The best part of using this is it is a very high quality kitchen and bath grade finish, like the finish you see on the Amish cabinets. I used it on a kit that I just wraped with mahogany veneer and boy they came out nice! Im not saying that this is the only product available its just what I have used and like it very well. Before you start twirling and spraying, read up a little on finishing, it could save you some headaches!

Jeff

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Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 13 years ago
#5
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HOUSE OF KOLOR has some large flakes as well and a applicator.

pan60.com
Posted on 13 years ago
#6
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I think it took me like 20+ coats to do this sparkle job on a maple shell I made. I traded a guy for a metal snare and he removed the glitter and stained it a dark brown color.

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Posted on 13 years ago
#7
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I'm in. I can't get into restoring another kit at the moment but over the weekend I plan to cut up some boards to do some samples on and experiment a little with glitter distribution and density. Looking at the original finish, it is actually a lot more sparse than it was in my head.

So, for the glitter colours, I see green, pink, gold, silver and red. Am I missing colours?

fathertime,

That finish looks really cool. It looks pretty coarse in the close up. What exactly is it? Glass, plastic? That must have been an exercise in patience!

Posted on 13 years ago
#8
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From mike17

I'm in. I can't get into restoring another kit at the moment but over the weekend I plan to cut up some boards to do some samples on and experiment a little with glitter distribution and density. Looking at the original finish, it is actually a lot more sparse than it was in my head. So, for the glitter colours, I see green, pink, gold, silver and red. Am I missing colours?fathertime,That finish looks really cool. It looks pretty coarse in the close up. What exactly is it? Glass, plastic? That must have been an exercise in patience!

Mike, the coarse part is about 5 coats into it using polyurethane. I eventually layered and sanded my way to a smooth finish. the next time I do this I will work more on flattening out the glitter before putting on more coats.

Posted on 13 years ago
#9
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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try a agitator pot with flake( air cap will push it just get the right size ) in mix clear coat it will lay better and multi coats not too heavy it will sag then u can control density and wet sand in between after a few coats of clear good luck

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 13 years ago
#10
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