Search
Register
Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 130.06263%

Making wrap another ply of the drum

Posts: 74 Threads: 17

I performed a search and didn't see anything related to my question, so here it is; Most restorers use an adhesive to install wrap on a drum and others use the tape method. It seems that 3M is the most popular adhesive used and is applied to both the wrap and the shell. My question is based on using adhesive and the method everyone uses to ensure that the wrap is as tight and air-free as possible (no air pockets between the shell and the wrap itself) essentially making the wrap another ply of the shell. The method I've seen is to apply the adhesive and let it dry, and then to apply the wrap on to the shell by rolling it as you go along and finish it up with the usual trimming, drilling, and remounting the lugs. Does anybody here use additional compression to squeeze the wrap tightly onto the shell, like between two sets of rollers that can be adjusted for the gap? If so, could you share your setup?

Also, while I'm at it, would using high-bond tape wrap have any advantages over adhesive besides it's relative ease of removal if necessary?

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
Posts: 74 Threads: 17

I've found an example of what I'm talking about. Rob Kampa (Magstar drums) has one in this workshop. I was wondering if anyone built one similar to it. It's at 10:40 in the video.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMEJs02tAQk"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMEJs02tAQk[/ame]

Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 537 Threads: 31

I have agreed with your theory and came to the same conclusion ever since I used the 3M adhesive for my first rewrap job. I don't think that the 3M product will give the same characteristics as an adhesive that dries hard. I think that the 3M and the wrap dampen the shell too much, and makes any bother over a shell's wood type a moot point.

Making the wrap a true outer ply should be the goal. Gretsch used to have some sort of fabric that they used to help the bond between the outer wood and the wrap, and their process mad a solid connection between the two.

Posted on 9 years ago
#3
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

Mike many of the homemade presses use old offset printing press rollers. When I worked at a wide format print house there were tons of old roller cores for the taking. Up to 28" wide. The rollers are steel core so no flex. These days for me it's all small sheet presses 13" wide and digital machines without rollers. But if you can source a couple old press soft rollers the press itself is very easy to make. I was talking with a couple guys last year on Ghost Note who made them. Most are steady builders and use them all the time. It's by far a nice way to adhere the wrap with good squeeze.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 9 years ago
#4
Posts: 74 Threads: 17

Thanks for the replies guys. I've been thinking about making a roller system - it only makes sense to get the wrap as tight as you can get it.

Posted on 9 years ago
#5
Posts: 10714 Threads: 579

From Rik_Everglade

I have agreed with your theory and came to the same conclusion ever since I used the 3M adhesive for my first rewrap job. I don't think that the 3M product will give the same characteristics as an adhesive that dries hard. I think that the 3M and the wrap dampen the shell too much, and makes any bother over a shell's wood type a moot point.Making the wrap a true outer ply should be the goal. Gretsch used to have some sort of fabric that they used to help the bond between the outer wood and the wrap, and their process mad a solid connection between the two.

it was cheesecloth that gretsch used.

Your drummers not much good is he!? What you need is someone that's as good as me. ! John Henry Bonham !!
Posted on 9 years ago
#6
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action
Something else here