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Ludwig Tom Mount LR2993MT

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I've got a 20" Ludwig bass drum from '64 with original rail consolette assembly. I've been considering purchasing a replacement assembly for play purposes only and have no interest in "drilling" or doing any other types of modifications to the factory-drilled holes in the shell. I've got an opportunity to purchase the Ludwig mount shown in the attached pic. Unfortunately, I've received contradictory reports as to whether it can be installed "as is", using the factory-drilled holes in the shell. Just wondering if any of you has purchased this particular mount and, if so, if you'd be kind enough to share the "good, bad and ugly" of it.

THANKS in advance for your time and your help!

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
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Here's the pic of the mount.

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Posted on 9 years ago
#2
Posts: 2010 Threads: 19
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The holes do NOT line up.

Posted on 9 years ago
#3
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KO is correct. The holes do not line up. I learned the expensive way.

Posted on 9 years ago
#4
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From jerrysterken

KO is correct. The holes do not line up. I learned the expensive way.

So the rail mounting holes don't line up with the original holes, but can the arm of the LR2993MT mount attach to the original Ludwig rail? I'm curious as I have a Transition badged bass with the original rail mounted on it.

Mike

-No Guru... still learning more every day-
Posted on 9 years ago
#5
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No. I tried. Too big and too heavy. Try looking a Steve Maxwells site. I thought I saw repros on there.

Posted on 9 years ago
#6
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Thank you all for your feedback and the information you provided. The current seller swears that the mount will fit on the 60s shell, using the holes that were factory-drilled for the original rail consolette assembly. He even suggested that I bring my drum with me, should I decide to make a purchase.

Posted on 9 years ago
#7
Posts: 2010 Threads: 19
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Here's a more detailed answer (my first was from my phone). Unless Ludwig has changed the design since first introducing this rail the new rail is somewhat longer (1" or so) than the old style rail, therefore the holes do not line up. The lower grip on the upright is also too big to fit within the confines of a vintage rail so you can't mix old with new. Finally, the new rail is not a particularly "gig friendly" design. The ball mount is cool and it will hold the tom where you want it but the arm cannot be folded flat against the drum when tearing down. To pack up the bass drum (assuming you don't want to use a super oversized case or have the arm protruding out of the zipper on a bag) requires that you remove the upright from the rail altogether. This isn't a huge deal I suppose but still not ideal and the potential to lose the internal spring or a washer on a dark stage is always there.

Frankly, the later version of the Ludwig rail pictured below works just fine. That is the version that Maxwell has reproduced and is readily available, as are vintage examples. I'm talking about the style with the ratchet type angle adjustment and the eyebolt gripping the "L" arm. I assume you currently have the "telephone dial" type of angle adjustment on a '64 set and, while those can work just fine, they are much more frustrating to use. Probably why Ludwig revamped the design in 1967.

I have the newer Ludwig rail like you're considering on my Element SE kit. It works fine but if the holes were the same I'd put the vintage style mount in it's place without a moment's hesitation. The new version is just bigger and bulkier than it needs to be to do the job at hand. The ball adjustment is nice but doesn't outweigh the negatives (IMO).

I recently purchased a brand new Classic Maple kit. The bass drum was "virgin" but it isn't any more. I drilled it for a vintage style Maxwell rail and it works like a champ.

If that doesn't appeal to you then look into an Atlas Arch. Also kind of bulky but it also has a ball arm and doesn't require any drilling. I have one of those too and would choose it over the bolt on one if I was going "modern".

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Posted on 9 years ago
#8
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From K.O.

Here's a more detailed answer (my first was from my phone). Unless Ludwig has changed the design since first introducing this rail the new rail is somewhat longer (1" or so) than the old style rail, therefore the holes do not line up. The lower grip on the upright is also too big to fit within the confines of a vintage rail so you can't mix old with new. Finally, the new rail is not a particularly "gig friendly" design. The ball mount is cool and it will hold the tom where you want it but the arm cannot be folded flat against the drum when tearing down. To pack up the bass drum (assuming you don't want to use a super oversized case or have the arm protruding out of the zipper on a bag) requires that you remove the upright from the rail altogether. This isn't a huge deal I suppose but still not ideal and the potential to lose the internal spring or a washer on a dark stage is always there.Frankly, the later version of the Ludwig rail pictured below works just fine. That is the version that Maxwell has reproduced and is readily available, as are vintage examples. I'm talking about the style with the ratchet type angle adjustment and the eyebolt gripping the "L" arm. I assume you currently have the "telephone dial" type of angle adjustment on a '64 set and, while those can work just fine, they are much more frustrating to use. Probably why Ludwig revamped the design in 1967.I have the newer Ludwig rail like you're considering on my Element SE kit. It works fine but if the holes were the same I'd put the vintage style mount in it's place without a moment's hesitation. The new version is just bigger and bulkier than it needs to be to do the job at hand. The ball adjustment is nice but doesn't outweigh the negatives (IMO).I recently purchased a brand new Classic Maple kit. The bass drum was "virgin" but it isn't any more. I drilled it for a vintage style Maxwell rail and it works like a champ.If that doesn't appeal to you then look into an Atlas Arch. Also kind of bulky but it also has a ball arm and doesn't require any drilling. I have one of those too and would choose it over the bolt on one if I was going "modern".

THANKS SO MUCH for taking the time to provide such an informative response! I do appreciate it!

Posted on 9 years ago
#9
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correct me if I'm wrong! you can take the resting blocks of the new rail, bolt them to your bass drum, then take your new rail and sit it in the blocks, now the ends of rail should extend past the blocks about 1/2 " on each end, mark new holes, take to machine shop, drill and tap for new mounting.

Posted on 9 years ago
#10
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