There is an awesome Speed King section on this website... don't have time to track it down right now... but I believe this was the recommended lubricant. Somebody please jump in if I am wrong.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2083717_use-white-lithium-grease.html

i've read somewhere, that you should use teflon based "grease" (lubricant?? don't know the engl. word) i might have gotten that wrong, so correct me, if so. i am on the case of cleaning an60s speed king as well, so more help is appreciated...

Here was that Speed King thread.. but it does not mention what is best as replacement grease. Some fantastic Speed King cut-away views when follow the links... so maybe that is helpful.

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?p=11540

Hello Sun180,

I have two WFL Speedkings, one bought new in 1962 and that I decided last year to clean because although the action was as smooth as the day I bought it, I thought that the grease might be decomposing. When cleaning the pillars and the pillar internal components I discovered some hardened grease that had worked its way down the pillar. Having cleaned these parts I had to work out a way of removing the grease caps without damaging them. This was simple. My objective was to force out the old grease so I packed the pillars with new auto wheel bearing grease, replaced the components and compressed the grease by screwing up the spring tension adjusting screws. This popped off the grease caps and forced new lube into and through the bearings. Some of the old grease was a bit hardened but grease that had not been actually lubricating the races looked quite fresh. Then having cleaned out old grease and ensuring that the bearings were fully lubricated with new grease, I reassembled the components, popped the caps back on, and it goes just like a bought one, as we say down under. As to the annoying squeaking that people complain about, I use a little grease on the link pivots and that both quietens and protects them from excessive wear. The original grease may have been lithium based, I don't know. You might use auto teflon compounded bearing grease if you don't mind the hand cleaning that goes with it. I expect the standard wheel bearing grease that I have used to be more than adequate, but if not I'll just replace it, having done it once, it's not so difficult.

Need I say, I measured the depth of the adjusting screws before disassembly so that the spring tension would be reset as it was before maintenance.

Hope that this helps.

Cheers

Malcolm

When you applied grease, how much did you use? I have a small tube of teflon based Super Lube and need to know how much is recommended.

Thanks!

Hi Mescalito71,

I've not been to this Forum for quite while.

How much grease to apply? Around the ball bearings, I think that you should not pack it tight. Some air space is appropriate. The ball races are removable when the end caps are removed, see a Video demonstration that you can find if you search the internet for 'Ludwig Speed King Pedal Lubrication'. I did not remove the races, as I said in my post I forced the new grease through when popping of the end caps, but it appears that they readily pull off the shaft. The grease that you apply in this area will lubricate the cams and top of the pushrods. If you do remove the ball races, clean them thoroughly with kerosene, or gasoline with a small amount of oil added, (two stroke engine fuel is ideal as the oil residue inhibits corrosion when the races dry out). When the races are well drained of the cleaner, inspect them for visible damage or wear and if you are satisfied with their condition, work the grease through them with your fingers so that all bearing surfaces are covered. Unless there is new grease behind the ball races partly fill the cavity behind them with grease and replace the races. Then partly fill the outer end before refitting the end caps. It may be a good idea to replace the ball races anyway. I guess that they are a general purpose item from bearing suppliers, and if so should be inexpensive. The bearing manufacturer and unique identifying code will be imprinted.

As to the amount of grease in the posts, enough to lubricate the surfaces should suffice. The important thing here is that the lube sticks to the vertical surfaces in use. The springs should benefit from light greasing, and that also will inhibit corrosion.

You can check the relative freedom of movement of the pedal action off the drum after it is retensioned by pulling back the beater to a fixed point, releasing it and observing the oscillations. My observation is that the pedals lubricated with standard compound (yellowish) wheel bearing grease are by this test slightly less free than a new pedal or one with less viscous lubricant, but they still enable very fast playing with lightly sprung tension.

I would not use a straight oil when the manufacturer uses grease. If you want the pedal to last, the last thing you want is dried out working surfaces.

Wheel bearing greases can be thinned down by mixing with typical 80/90 grade gearbox oil. The problem in this getting it just right, that is, reducing the grease viscosity or slump, so that the drag on the pushrods is reduced without having the grease run off the post surfaces and the cam driving end. This is a matter of trial and potential error if too much oil is used.

Ideally, you might be able to find a long life industrial grease that is superior to wheel bearing grease, and requires no thinning to get the optimum result. Greases with additives such as molybdenum disulphide or teflon are readily available, and may be superior.

I hope that this helps.

Good luck

Malcolm

I restored a vintage speed king I bought earlier this year and relied heavily on posts from this forum to do so :D. Anyway, I ended up using Tri-flow lubricant, which is a teflon based product. You can pick up a can at any Ace hardware store.As for the amount of grease to apply..well I wasnt very scientific about this to tell you the truth. If someone has a good metric though, I would love to hear it!

Good Luck,

James

You can also add a few drops of oil to a small dab of grease and mix it in for a thinner consistency.