oh yeah, yesterday, that drum looked like this---[Attachment: 3905]

Best way to tell if its brass as far as Ludwig goes, it take a look at the bearing edge, if it tucks back towards the shell, it's possibly brass. Secondly, look for a seam, and lastly those previous two with a crimped snare bed pretty much close the door on it. As far as nickel and whether or not it's worth replating. Lots of people like them as much as original as possible. As far as the holes, probably the throwoff?

Try checking here for more

Hey thanks! The 3 holes are not for a strainer though. The stainer is over a lug or two right over the snare beds.

The holes could be from the muffler?

1. The snare in the pictures is a Ludwig Universal (I think). Is it Nickle over Brass? [COLOR=Red]Correct, it is brass[/COLOR]

2. Will getting the drum refinished in a new coat of nickle or chrome take away from the value? [COLOR=Red]If you fix the extra holes and want a nice shiny drum, then do it. I think the drum with the extra holes in that shape is not that valuable to begin with. For resale, just leave it alone, it is not worth the time and money.[/COLOR]

3. What are the three holes in the shape of a triangle in the last picture for?[COLOR=Red]Extra holes in the shell.[/COLOR]

4. I also ordered a 1960's Supersensitive. Could this be coated in nickle or something else (maybe a gold or black finish) and would it take away from the value?[COLOR=Red]If it is brass, I would leave it alone. Yes, value will change, but we are not talking about an expensive snare. If you want a certain look, have a custom builder make the shell you want and put the hardware on it from the Super. Then you have two shells, or sell the Super shell.[/COLOR]

5. Is there any difference in the new Supersensitive strainers and the old ones? [COLOR=Red]From what years, 1960's to ? They did have style changes during those years. If you are talking about the early ones, they are nothing like the ones from the 60's

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David

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Thanks for the help. I am willing to put some money into the snares because I only paid $20 for each shell.

If I were to get the universal re-plated in nickel, how much do you think it could be worth?

I was also thinking, I could probably fill in the extra holes, sand it down and then get it replated and it would be like new.

Is the rest of the drum original and complete?... Once you do the shell, then the rest of the hardware will not look exactly the same. So I would say all or nothing on the plating...

Good question on the value and hard to determine, but less then an all original one. So I have seen them sell for around $175 and up for a good condition drum. Mint original is another story.

David

Since you have only the shell(s) and no other parts that go with it. Locating the right parts will be difficult and expensive, you'll end up paying more for parts to "restore" the drum than it's actually worth.

My thoughts, clean it and polish it as best as possible. If it doesn't get back any "newness and luster", you can powder coat it (any finish, metals, flakes, etc.) or find someone who does auto painting and have him give it a paint job (any type of finish, metals, sparkles, fades, etc).

Then hit a few of the drum builder sites that have or can make you lugs that fit the holes you have. Pick up a set of hoops, throw (a lot have generic holes or adaptors) and wires.

I have the other parts for the universal. All except the strainer. Some guys tried to paint the drum blue and the paint is making the nickle peel off of the lugs really, really bad. They are definetely getting plated and the shell just doesn't have that shine that I would love for it to have. I am assuming that this baby will sound pretty nice cause it's got a big thick, heavy brass shell.