Well, on any forum like this your gonna get 10 different ways to do something so you just have to pick the one you feel most comfortable with and go with it. The guys on this forum are experienced, all the different methods for cleaning are good.

If that was my shell. I would do as you have planned and strip the paint off. The rings can be glued up solid again but lets see some more pictures of those please.

The chrome or nickle parts can be safely washed or soaked in a tub of water and Dawn dish soap for a couple hours, cleaned up then polished with about any chrome polish. The really bad rusty screws could be replaced with new ones or you can try soaking them in a rust remover such as evapo-rust or CLR, or the vinegar/water trick.

First of all welcome!

Great project. If it were me, I would strip the interior. I'd want to be sure I got any and all mold, etc. gone. Plus I'd want to see what the water had done. Then I'd repaint as the wood is probably not pretty, but who knows!

I also have a Pioneer that was in a sad state and made the decision to strip it in and out. It sounds fabulous and is my favorite jazz drum. Best of luck!

-Doug

Oh, one other quick thought, if you do strip the interior, be sure to cover all holes so the stripper doesn't leech out to your exterior wrap.

Ok, here is one of the lugs I took off yesterday.

As you can see there is some mold, and the spring is rusted. Would you suggest I wash the whole thing together and then take it apart, or separate all of the parts first?

My guess would have been to take the spring off and put it in some vinegar or citric acid, and put the rest in some soap water. (also why Dawn? does it have something other brands don't, or is it just a reference to talk about dish soap).

Rem

Hardware looks like it can be cleaned up. The shell can be an experiment at this point for restoration. I'll be interested to see how you proceed and your progress. Good luck!

Go ahead and take the spring and the lug inserts out. You can soak them all together. After the rust comes off those springs, I usually hand dry them. Then I use some wd40 or 3 in 1 oil to leave on them so that they do not rust again.

Dawn just really seems to work wonders. Get the Ultra.

A particular scent in mind? ;)

I`m seeing electrolysis taking place. The non ferrous metal is coming into contact with steel/Iron. I don`t know which metals are which, but it`s tell tale signs are there.(Brass badge steel grommet for instance)

After you clean all the hardware, you will see missing pieces of plating. Those will quickly rust up again in a few months. The best way to delay that for a long time is to use liquid car wax and polish a bit. Unless you re-plate, you will need to re wax every now and again.

What are we looking at with the washer pic. ? Why can`t I see through it`s hole or , Does the fastener sink into it ? Those two metals are conducting too.

The washer picture was more to show how bad the rust was. The humidity was trapped inside and before I tried removing any of the hardware, I wanted to ask for advise to make sure I wasn't going to get in a situation where the head of the bolt would break off and it would be a nightmare to fix it (none of that happened.

Once again this is my first "attempt" at a drum restoration and I thought maybe someone who would have had trouble with a breaking bolt head would have looked at the photo and told me "try this instead of a more obvious method to remove the hardware".

But all of the hardware is now off the drum and i'm starting to clean the inside paint.