Here is a bass drum wrapped in one of the other Rowlux films:

[IMG]http://www.drumforum.org/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=63385[/IMG]

Looks pretty sweet.

Bubinga is lookin' sweeeeet!

How much do you think adding a wood veneer would change the sound of the drums? Not much different than a wrap I guess. Maybe better because it would be wood instead of plastic?

Both would be gorgeous. I believe the Rowlux is the same material used for the classic Satin Flame drum wrap, so it does have a cool vintage drum vibe to it (even if it wasn't a Ludwig wrap).

I re-did my Club Dates in peacock Satin Flame, and it's a really nice finish. You're right; it does change appearance depending on the viewing angle, and it has a beautiful 3D depth to it. I took a pic of them in natural light which does a decent job of showing off the wrap, but you really do have to see it in person to get the full effect. I love it. (Pardon the unfnished bass drum hoops. I'll get around to 'em eventually. :))

That said: Satin Flames scratch verrrry easily, so if you're going to gig this kit, the bubinga might be a more practical choice. And that bubinga looks stunning.

If you're leaning towards the Rowlux, you might also check with Canal Plastics in NYC. They sell what looks like the same material, and they might be cheaper. I think it comes in rolls that are 24" wide and $15 per linear yard. You could probably get your kit done for about $75 - $100 through them.

+1 on canal plastics.Their prices are the cheapest around.Those Lugwigs are arguably some of the best sounding drums ever made.Enjoy

Steve B

I wouldn't use either. Too much babysitting required for both. As noted, the veneer requires proper application and finishing, while Rowlux aka Satin Flame scratches if you just LOOK at it the wrong way.

I'd wrap it in a pearl or sparkle. You'll be glad that you did when you see the results.

I would vote neither.

Ok, update: I looked closer at some scratches, and there is a red mahogany finish under the black spray paint. Is there a stripper that will remove the paint and leave the original finish? I would love to bring that back.

No, Potsy, when you strip the paint, you'll get the old finish off too. You can't stop the strippers chemical action at a chosen layer. It just eats off any and all the finish. Be careful. Use rubber gloves, eye protection and a face mask. Dispose of residue responsibly.

What you can do is; strip the shells and either clear-coat the natural wood, or get fancy with some Tung Oil applied with 00-00 steel wool and put a nice hand polish on the shells. If you go with a high-gloss clear-coat, it will darken the mahogany to a nice deep red like you see under the paint. You won't have to use any stains at all. Just clear-coat spray or multiple hand rubbed coats of Tung Oil.

I'm a fan of the Tung Oil. It not only feeds the wood, it seals the grain and after about the third application with the 00-00 steel wool, it starts to shine like you waxed it. I usually put on about 5 or 6 coats of Tung Oil applied with the steel wool, with 00-00 steel wool sanding in between coats. (Using a clean piece of steel wool for the in-between sanding operations.) The last application of oil can be done with a soft cloth or brush and then wiped down. The finish is very shiny, durable and it feels as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it.

John

PS - *ALWAYS sand with the grain, never across. Longer strokes are much better than short, jerky strokes. I don't know what your level of experience is, so please ignore this post script if it's something you already know.