The linseed oil will react with the lacquer....don't use anything before you lacquer. I have had good results with just fine sanding the hoops first, then use a tack cloth over them to get all the residue. After that I use minwax clear spray lacquer. Works fantastic! Use in a VERY well ventilated area though....the fumes! LoLoLoLo I usually go for at least 10 thin coats for both depth and protection of the wood.

[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][SIZE="3"]Sounds good. I sprayed a set last month, but wanted better economy so I bought a quart of Minwax pecan finish & a quart of Deft clear satin so I'll probably be brushing it on. I'll be high as the Mad Hatter here in awhile. WooHoo![/SIZE][/FONT]:D

I brush mine as well. Use a coat hanger and do the outsides first. Always keep some 4X steel wool to lightly smooth in between coats as brushing does cause some bubbles to form. I actully put a little stin in my lacquer to start the aging process so they match the already aged wood. Good luck with it. Keep it posted.

When you are done, take a buffing wheel to the give a nice sheen to it. Looks lovely. If you have one for your drill, it works as well as a bench mount.

what the heck is "stin"? you mean "stain" ? I like what you are saying about getting an aged look because I'm matching up newly glossed wood to 40 yr old seasoned wood finish. Don't want the new to look too 'new'. Aged is good.

Yes, for sure, I need to put the buffing wheel for drill on the Chopin Lizst.

I have bench mount grinder, but it's not mounted to the bench yet. Waiting for the dead of winter to dothat lil' project.

The "Dead of Winter...." in Bizbee...all of what, 72*? And yes, that is stin. A good shaker pine works nicely.

Ok John. I give up. can you please define/describe what STIN is?Help2 It must be slang?

So far I did 2 very light coats of stain and then 1 coat of clear lacquer. Ready for steel wool then next clear coat. ;)

I'm just kiddin' man...I have a brace on my hand and POS keyboard on a $1200 laptop...anyway, it is STAIN...now, let's see this job!

Well here's where I'm at so far.baby crawl2 Inlay is just tucked in & not glued(tacked) yet.At least 2 more coats of lacquer to go(I added a little stin for good measure). 2 questions: If inlay is a little snug should I sand wrap? What to use for short staples to secure inlay? You know, like the old Ludwig hoops have wide crown very short staples.

Having camera problems so I took these with the phone * emailed them to myself. Here's the first peek at Arctic Oyster-it's the closest thing there is to (BowlingBall) Blue Oyster.

I know the trick of rolling up wrap and then sanding edges. Asked AITWOOD to make inlay a hair wide,but they went for 1/2" so inlay cut at 1/2" is just a wee big. Chewie:

I used Dark Walnut Minwax stain (to cover the paint spots) and some Testor's Inca Gold model paint. 2-3 coats of lacquer, 000 steel wool, 2-3 coats more, 0000 steel wool, pumice, rottenstone, 2 coats of wax.

[IMG]http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/3863/basshoopsafter.jpg[/IMG]

By shades_of_mae at 2010-07-14