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Is Chroming Nickel Hardware A Detrimental Modification
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I'm in agreement about preferring nickel also. It just adds a cool mojo to me.
In my breath of limited knowledge , I have notice most buyers want the serious mojo about a kit/ drum etc ,
They are not worried about little differences as in hardware lite fade , and there usually professionals that missed it when they were young , and are willing to cough up the coin for catalogue correct kits pies and all so they can recapture there youth and have all bragging rights to there period correct studio. Now on the other hand the collectors who are looking for long term investment do not care about the era as much as the almighty dollar there the scofflaws to the trade and want a nos drum in original packaging and documents they look for the golden ring now t lastly the collectors who just love the eye candy there the ones who enjoy the love of drums .... sorry being long winded
Gary
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp
once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
In the chroming process nickel is the penultimate process before chroming is done so seems acceptable to go one step further to chrome since any Ringo nut will pi$$ & moan that it's nickel. Definitely not a player's FT: 100% collector's.
I guess a Ringo FT will bring more resale, but that drummer with a 63 DownBeat in Nickel without a FT will be sad one day when his option got Chromed.
You can make both happy by getting chromed lugs.
Are the hoops Nickle too ?
.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
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Is this a drum you are looking to sell or a "keeper"?
If you're selling I doubt any potential buyers are going to make a big issue out of the hardware as floor toms in that size and finish are hard enough to find that most potential buyers will probably pay dearly either way. Perhaps they will swap out the hardware themselves if they get the drum and the rest of their set has chrome hardware.
If it's a keeper then do whatever makes you happy but, again, I wouldn't spend the money on re-plating the original hardware when chrome replacements are so readily available.
Personally I'm not part of the "all parts must be original down to the last tension rod washer" crowd as my feeling is that factory made drums consist of interchangeable parts that were slapped together by factory workers using pneumatic tools and were/are not precious works of art lovingly hand crafted by careful artisans. All things being equal 100% originality is always nice but there is really no way to know whether a part or parts have been swapped out on a drum (if the parts are of the correct era). I don't see this as a license to try to deceive someone but rather as a reality of life that "parts is parts" when it comes to factory made items. I would rather have a fully functional instrument, or one that matches the rest of my set, than one that is all original but not playable or that looks bad. That's just my opinion of course, and others may well disagree, but it is your drum to do with as you please.
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Is this a drum you are looking to sell or a "keeper"?If you're selling I doubt any potential buyers are going to make a big issue out of the hardware as floor toms in that size and finish are hard enough to find that most potential buyers will probably pay dearly either way. Perhaps they will swap out the hardware themselves if they get the drum and the rest of their set has chrome hardware. If it's a keeper then do whatever makes you happy but, again, I wouldn't spend the money on re-plating the original hardware when chrome replacements are so readily available.Personally I'm not part of the "all parts must be original down to the last tension rod washer" crowd as my feeling is that factory made drums consist of interchangeable parts that were slapped together by factory workers using pneumatic tools and were/are not precious works of art lovingly hand crafted by careful artisans. All things being equal 100% originality is always nice but there is really no way to know whether a part or parts have been swapped out on a drum (if the parts are of the correct era). I don't see this as a license to try to deceive someone but rather as a reality of life that "parts is parts" when it comes to factory made items. I would rather have a fully functional instrument, or one that matches the rest of my set, than one that is all original but not playable or that looks bad. That's just my opinion of course, and others may well disagree, but it is your drum to do with as you please.
Only the collectors are that anal about it K.
.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Don't even spend time polishing the nickle. Any buyer would rather start with original. Nickle polished in a vibrating tumbler then hand polished with aluminum polish is stunning and has more warmth than chrome. Just play and enjoy until chrome lugs show up. Long as no extra holes are drilled all good.
Creighton
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