Just penned this article for my blog, thought some of y'all might be interested.
http://www.georgiaphilcustomdrumworks.com/blog.htm
Cheers!
Phil
Just penned this article for my blog, thought some of y'all might be interested.
http://www.georgiaphilcustomdrumworks.com/blog.htm
Cheers!
Phil
Hello Phil,
I enjoyed reading your article
It looks as if you may have forgotten more about these drums
and drumming with them, then I might ever know
also great job on those restorations you have featured on the blog
Kenwood
Hey, Phil!
That was an interesting well-written article, sir. I really enjoyed it. I actually play with a set of old Stars and have two Star stencils ready to gig as well. What you mention about proper tuning and bearing edges is so very true. The aging of Luan, in my opinion as well as yours, is indeed a vital factor in sound! Great job, Phil!
Brian
I have a question. Are you cutting a double 45 on a rering drum or a non-rering drum? I have little to no luck recutting non-rering luan shells. The luan just blows apart.
Great article Phil!
Reminds me of the video somebody made comparing the Star and the Luddy - very little difference in sound - of course it was subject to heads and all - but it made its point effectively.
I think the problem that many of us have is not having enough time to restore these treasures! I think that indeed is a good problem to have though! I have several in my line.......
This issue/debate continues to be divisive among drum enthusiasts. Frankly, that's fine by me. If they all 'saw the light' it would drive the prices way up and make MIJ acquisition that much more difficult. I know I spill secrets all the time here - and will gradually have to pay for it as my discussions that I enjoy so much wisends the knowledge and creates more of a demand for these old MIJs.
As long as I get my hands on some good ones before they (the good DEALS) all become extinct!!
@ Teverson, I've cut 45 degree bearing edges on old luan re-ring and non-re-ring drums with little damage. For me the tricks were:
1. Take oFf max. 1 mm. at a time, go deeper progressively, untill you're there.
2. Give the router a lot of time, move slowly (but without making burn-marks)
3. take a firm and well sticking painter tape. stick it on the wood and press firmly. position it like in the picture. it will keep the wood together.
off course: test first!
And: indeed an interesting and will-written article. I have had a MIJ stencil kit, non- re-ring. I've re-done the edges full roundover. Toms sounded great (to be honoust better than Roger Big R, or Premier/Beverley). Bass drum sounded great too, but was not loud enough. hurted a little to sell it.
I can attest to the sound of a 60' s pearl kit I played throug the 80' s I played every rot guy bar in chitown for years and I did not worry about the loss or how I set it up oil 2 ply heads shot gun style I did all he expressions but the volume was never there either but when I played fire it worked well but then again I had a 10 lug brass pearl snare also she cracked but I do love my Ludwigs today nothing compares to there dryer out and aged wood the overtones are surreal
Good suggestion about the tape and small increments.
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