[COLOR="DarkRed"]Acetone should do the trick. Just remember to let the shell dry out for several hours before sanding. Acetone evaporates quickly, but it still takes a few hours to dry up in the grains.

[/COLOR]

thank you, looking forward to finishing this one..

I'm a neophyte as far as rewrapping, refinishing or tinkering with an original factory drum finish. My knowledge of vintage cars tells me not to "redo" what was original. Is this refinishing work acceptable and not considered degrading to a vintage drum, and/or is it really just up to what the current owner wants to do, as long as the refinish work is identical to what was originally offered in that series of drum? Just curious. (I'd rather hit 'em, than take 'em apart.)

Well in my case i am building a John Bonham kit and it is in natural maple finish,the odds of finding a 10x14 tom that matches is pretty slim so i just bough a drum and removed the finish and in this case i was lucky as they did not glue the entire wrap down saving me a ton of work... but sometimes a drums wrap is just shot and you either rewrap the kit or stain it . But i would never destroy a vintage drum just to rewrap it no way.. if they are in good shape leave em alone..

Need more help as acetone did not hardly scratch this stuff so, what are my options for removing this sticky stuff from double back tape without staining the shell ? Thanks all

Mike, i have used CROWN Paint and glue remover with good results, two things you need to know, have good ventilation and the temperature needs to be at least 70 degrees, i purchased it from either Lowe's homes improvement or home depot

Thanks lol i guess i will have to wait till summer to get 70 degrees lol

mike, the things we must endure, for our habits!!!

My 3 ply Ludwig maples were covered in glue after it had s/s sheet on it & I was going back to natural finish. I used a loose leaf polishing mop on a buff used for metal polishing...you will be amazed at how easy it come off & how clean it makes the wood.