There's several ways of doing it. You can get the correct size wood dowel, glue it flush to the interior of the shell then cut the exterior end of the dowel flush and sand so it's even with the rest of the shell. 2nd. option. You can cut a plug from a donor shell with the same ply configuration and glue that in. 3rd. option which I don't like for larger holes is to fill the hole with a mixture of fine saw dust and wood glue mixture.

Appreciate the response. I'm going to skip doing but will maybe have someone else professionally fix it.

Chris

Is the mount centered or near the edge Chris?

Mike

Hey there Mike!

Centered near badge. Last thing I want to do is experiment on a very nice bass, so will leave it for now,

Chris

I was just making sure that it wasn't an original Ludwig Gold Coast Cocktail kit. They are 18" bass drums with the sam double mount holding the top portion of a snare basket for the matching snare. Those usually have the mount close to the batter side though.

Mike

Would have never thought of that, Mike. Great point! But, alas, the mount is nearer the badge so no luck.

Chris

Another option that I've used before on the "Pearl Style" mounts with about 1" holes:

Put several layers of painter's tape on one side of the hole (interior or exterior, it's up to you............what ever side you DON'T want to run a sander/sandpaper on). This gives you a good backing.

I use Minwax Wood Filler. Comes in a tube like toothpaste. The key is, put on a little bit at a time and let it thoroughly dry (for at least 8 hours) before the next application. For the first application, just enough to cover the tape, then gradually build it up with additional applications until it's slightly higher than the shell surface. By "layering" like that, it is much stronger and it can dry thoroughly all the way through. (Leave the painter's tape on as a backing the entire time until you are ready to sand).

When the last application is fully dry, use a palm sander (or sand by hand, but that is much more tedious) with about 110 grit to get it flush with the shell. Lightly sand the area that was against the painter's tape too (using several additional layers of painter's tape to protect the surrounding area if need be). Then re-sand with 220 grit. That will really make it smooth. You may need to add a tiny bit of wood filler to the area that was taped to make it 100% even, but nothing major.

Once this is all done, you can polyurethane the (now covered) hole. This will make it even stronger, and really "make it one" with the rest of the surrounding "real" wood. Poly both sides, again using painter's tape to protect the surrounding area because you only want to poly just the large hole itself. Give it about 4 coats, and then just a very light sanding (or 000 steel wool is even better) when complete.

I've done this before on a few kits and I've never had any issues. I've used both paint and wrap over the filled hole on the exterior side, and on the interior side of the hole, which has no paint or wrap, has always remained rock solid.

This is much easier than trying to snugly fit a dowel or piece of another shell in the hole. Just take your time and you'll get a great result.

Really appreciate the time it took to write that. I have other projects anyway and don't want to further mar the drum. For now anyhow ...