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How to remove wrap glue

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What would you recommend to remove wrap glue? This stuff on my vintage Premiers is very, very flaky.

Thanks in advance.

Yeah- I'm THAT guy!!!

Dead dogs like rusty fire hydrants!!!
Posted on 13 years ago
#1
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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From bunnyman

What would you recommend to remove wrap glue? This stuff on my vintage Premiers is very, very flaky.Thanks in advance.

I've been using Xylol with good results.

Soak a small towel with it and lay it on the drum... let it set for about 30 minutes, then start wiping away the now softened glue.

Tape your edges and any mounting holes... the stuff can leak inside and play

havoc with your interiors.

Use gloves and work in a well-ventilated area !

Let the used towels dry outside separately.... they can self-combust if piled together.

My buddy Poppy here on the forum turned me on to the product and technique.

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#2
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I googled Xylol- pretty interesting stuff.

I am somewhat considering oiling rather than wrapping. I want to use Tru Oil gunstock oil for the finish. The Premiers were wrapped much like the Asian drums; the wrap came off pretty easily. I tried stripping a Rogers drum many years ago- I lost so much wood from that bloody thing!!!!

Thanks for the response.

Yeah- I'm THAT guy!!!

Dead dogs like rusty fire hydrants!!!
Posted on 13 years ago
#3
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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I'm lost now.... oh well, the glue will have to come off wrapping, staining or whatever to achieve good results......

Here's a stain job I did.... used Xylol to get the glue off after removing the destroyed wrap. And a re-wrap I did after removing the destroyed original wrap and removing the old glue with Xylol.

I may have lost course on the purpose of the thread, please forgive if so.

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#4
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I was thinking aloud, and shared a story of the contrast of how easily the wrap came off. Also, looking at your stained drums made me think of possibly staining and oiling rather than wrapping these shells.

Yeah- I'm THAT guy!!!

Dead dogs like rusty fire hydrants!!!
Posted on 13 years ago
#5
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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I love a natural finish.... lots more work, but .............

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#6
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I used Maloof oil and wet-sanded it into the wood. There's a thread somewhere on here about how to do it. It's a very easy process and the results are stunning. Sand the shells with 220, wipe on the first coat of Maloof and let it sit for 24 hrs. Then drip oil onto a sheet of 320 and lightly sand over the shell keeping the sheet wet with oil. The sanded particles mix with the oil and fill in the pores of the wood. Let the shell sit for 24 hrs. Then repeat using 400, 600, 800, then finish off with 1200 grit paper.

Posted on 13 years ago
#7
Posts: 2628 Threads: 40
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[COLOR="Purple"]Both of those products sound interesting.

I generally use Acetone on the stripped shells. This is labor intensive. Like Kevin's method, you gotta cover all holes on inside so the stuff doesn't drip in.

I basically douse a cloth with it and then douse the exterior of the shell, really soak it, a section at a time, usually in 12th's or 16th's...then quickly follow with a scraper to take off as much glue as possible. Do that all the way around the shell. The glue tends to scrape off like wet goo....

Usually gets off about 2/3 of the glue and residue. The other 1/3 I just sand off (but you have to wait an hour or so for all the acetone to evaporate out of the wood).

Some people have argued that this damages the wood, but I have never found this to be the case at all. Acetone evaporates really, really fast.

About the only advantage to this method I can think of is...it can be done relatively quickly. You can clean up a set of 3 shells in a few hours, and they'd be ready to wrap within half a day....

But as I said, it's sort of a b#tch....[/COLOR]

www.2ndending.com
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
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