Here's a good alternative to replacing the rubber on the bottom of the baseplate:
[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/vyacheslav13/th_SK1.jpg[/IMG]
It's peel and stick Velcro. I just cut it to size, and stuck the "grip" side on the baseplate. It will help keep the pedal in place on your drum rug, which is especially important if you have vintage spurs that don't do so well with preventing bass drum creep.
I just disassembled an SK I got at the local pawn shop for $40. Non-toxic cleaning method: Soaked the piston and springs in dawn ultra + bartenders friend overnight. Cleaned up easily with a toothbrush. To remove the caps, I tried a rubber mallet on the posts, but no luck. I wrapped the post with a towel and a couple moderate taps with a standard hammer popped them right out. Rubber mallet secured them when finished.
Cleaned the post with a round metal bristle brush and paper towel. Paper towel in the bearing compartment. Covered the piston and spring, packed the post, and bearings with bike lube.
Action is fantastic, but squeak is still there. Tried to lube the heel plate hinge, but can't figure out how to remove them without damaging them. I'd like to insert a plastic washer as some have suggested. The squeak isn't as bad, but it still bugs!
Brian
I just disassembled an SK I got at the local pawn shop for $40. Non-toxic cleaning method: Soaked the piston and springs in dawn ultra + bartenders friend overnight. Cleaned up easily with a toothbrush. To remove the caps, I tried a rubber mallet on the posts, but no luck. I wrapped the post with a towel and a couple moderate taps with a standard hammer popped them right out. Rubber mallet secured them when finished.Cleaned the post with a round metal bristle brush and paper towel. Paper towel in the bearing compartment. Covered the piston and spring, packed the post, and bearings with bike lube. Action is fantastic, but squeak is still there. Tried to lube the heel plate hinge, but can't figure out how to remove them without damaging them. I'd like to insert a plastic washer as some have suggested. The squeak isn't as bad, but it still bugs!Brian
I thought speed kings are suppose to squeak! LoLoLoLo
Not sure if I have missed it in this thread,,
Have just been "commissioned"?? to restore an SK found in a box at my son's recording studio... (never done one before, and have not even played one for thirty or so years)...lot's of info here will get the job done. Only one question.. what is the thread size for the heel "Lock Plate" screw on the underside,, (This one is missing the screw & washer)..
appreciated
Cheers
No one here knows...? (we are all metric down here)..
Cheers
Not sure if I have missed it in this thread,,Have just been "commissioned"?? to restore an SK found in a box at my son's recording studio... (never done one before, and have not even played one for thirty or so years)...lot's of info here will get the job done. Only one question.. what is the thread size for the heel "Lock Plate" screw on the underside,, (This one is missing the screw & washer).. appreciatedCheers
The US screw is a #10-24 x 1/4". That's a #10 screw, 24 threads, and it's 1/4 inches long.
I have replacements of the screws and washers. PM if interested.
Thanks very much Johnny..
I'll try here first.. but may take you up if I can't find one...
Appreciated..
Thanks
Hello all! Just thought I'd share my recent experiences - of course all my experiences with SKs are recent because I never had one until a year ago. Anyway, I recently cleaned mine up. I used the method that member checker758 posted on the first page of this thread to pop out the grease caps. I sprayed some WD40 around the caps and let it soak in a minute, then blasted it with the icy spray of an upside down compressed air can (for blowing the dust off your computer keyboard), then gave it a good whack on a 2x4 that was laying on my work table. One of them popped out on the first whack, the other took 2 or 3 whacks. All in all, it was quite easy.
As to the squeakiness, I believe - at least in my case - it's coming from the metal linkage between the footboard and the cam. I am also using a WFL flat hihat stand with the same metal link between the footboard and pull rod - it's squeaky too. Anyway, I was recently playing a low-volume restaurant gig and heard a lot of squeaking as I was opening and closing the hihats. I didn't have any grease or WD40 with me, so I asked the kitchen for about a spoonful of cooking oil in a cup. I put a few drops at the hinge points and didn't hear any more squeaking for the rest of the night.
So, maybe pay a little attention to the linkage if you're trying to quiet your SK.
Lynn
Thought I'd add a little to this excellent post. I worked on a badly abused 70's Speed King today- the user had broken off the beater retaining screw flush with the pivot arm. After removing the broken screw by Dremelling a slot in the stud and slowly backing it out, I noticed the pedal action was really screwed up- very notchy. After total disassembly I found the top of the "pistons" had oddly-shaped slots worn into the top. After reviewing the various pictures I realized this surface is supposed to be flat. I then ground off the approximately 1/8" slots flat again and after liberal lubing with graphite bearing grease (pistons,bearings, which I removed and the piston contact surface)reassembled the pedal. All is well, but I would not remove more than the 1/8" since I believe it may interfere with clearances within the goal posts and bearings. I ended up removing the hardened grease with brake cleaner, which is messy. The lower footboard pivot is squeaky and worn oval, but overall the pedal is working at 90% instead of 25%.
Sounds great . Since this post I took the broken piston to a local machinist who, lucky for me , happened to be a drummer .. He machined a new piston for me and didn't even charge me .. Somethingg to keep in mind ..
