Hey Jeff,

I am a cabinet maker also. I glue full sheets of sandpaper to a granite countertop sink cutout that I have then sand the shell on it to true the edges.

I knew ther was a use for those sink cutouts. Funny how customers like to keep those because they cost them so much, then they lay in the basement fo ever!

Thanks for the input!

Jeff

> What do you think about routing the edge to a sharp 45 degree edge then >taking a block of wood with sanpaper glued to it and taking off the sharp point >so you end up with a uniform flat edge that is 1/16" or so wide, then hit it >with a 3/16" round over bit from the outside of the shell.

Make that round-over a little softer, less severe and you've got the famous George Way/Camco profile! Camco's are hands down, the best sounding drums on the planet. Give it a go. If you're successful those drums are going to sing for you.

Note: Always make sure that the topmost edge of the profile (the peak of the bearing edge,) is centered on a ply. If you begin or end the router cuts in-between plies, I've been told it weakens the edge somehow. Although I'm not quite sure why that is so, I just follow the tracks left in the snow by guys who know a lot more than I do. I imagine it has to do with effective transmission of vibration from head to shell. Or something like that...

John

Please, reconsider re-cutting your edges. The original edge profile is part of what makes a vintage drum sound the way they were meant to sound. Why would you want a vintage drum to sound like a new drum??? Also, a sharper edge is not going to help the overall sound of a MIJ set. You will likely just intensify harsh overtones that you'll have to try to soften with mufflers, two ply heads, moon gels, etc.

If at all possible, I would leave the edge contours, and just lightly smooth them out with some 220 grit sandpaper.

Nice interior, by the way. I think the color looks nice. However, I do think that coated heads both look and sound best on old MIJ drums.

cn679, I have to agree with everything you are saying. This thread started out with just a simple "how do you like my finish job" and turned into a bearing edge class. I am very interested in restoring edges but very much agree that it is best to leave them alone if they are in good shape. I dont want to change the sound of the drum. And as far as the heads are concerned, thank you for your oppinoin, I think I am leaning toward the coated ones. One reason is the snare drum has what I belive to be the origional heads on it and they are white coated with no brand stamp. The snare side has a red tag on the edge that says Made in Japan, interesting. I have been wondering how having origional heads can effect the value.

Thanks again,

Jeff

JC - Sorry man, I was only responding to questions... honestly didn't mean to hi-jack your thread.

John

Oh I am not upset at all, I enjoyed it and learned alot also. I get a lot of use from this forum and sometimes worry I am posting too many questions. You did not hy-jack it, it just went in another direction, a good one. I was just happy to hear someone comment on my finish job again,lol.

Hey JC, I think the interior looks great. I had a newer set of Stewarts in the mid 70's, but they were thicker shells that had no re-rings. Not sure about the use of clear heads, but they would show off that cool look.

Nice work.

B

AZbill, thanks for the nice words!

Jeff

It looks good. While clear heads would show it off, it would also compromise the sound. Besides- the stick marks would soon obscure the ability to look at that nice handiwork.