That repair is beyond my scope and talents (such that they are). My guess is you would want to turn to a dentist for assistance. It appears as though Fangs of Death might have actually bitten it.

Thin modeling plywood can be used to fill the hole in and then flush it with matching veneer inside and out. Titebond 3 or Gorilla glue for the patch. You may need to bore the hole a bit bigger to get clean cut edges if they are chewed up to get a good tight fit on the patch.

i was bored last night. pic 1 is the hole. pic 2 is the hole after i carefully cut and remover some of the wrap to access the outer layer of wood. pic 3 is stenciling the hole with paper tape and pencil. pic 4 ok that works!

ok so pic one is stenciling the inside ply, i could do it over whats left of the inside ply by freehanding the basic shape (middle ply will be covered slightly by inner) pic 2 is marking my stencil on the paint stirrer i happened to have handy. pic 3 is about halfway through widdling this to the right shape. notice the sharp piece coming off the bottom. that is where a shard of the second ply came out between the inner and outer ply. pic 4 will it fit? tune in next time!

this surprisingly didn't take me long at all. carving the wood with the blade took the longest. with a small belt sander one would have been able to do it in 10 minutes. the tail hanging off the repair piece fit exactly as it should right between the layers. the inside looks real tight. outside needs some work to make the outer ply fit nicely. so this is the point i am at. i dont have any real thin wood so i will finish this project later. ive got maybe an hour and a half invested into it. thanks for looking,ryan

I have been where you're at - many times. I certainly appreciate the work you have done. However, I have used a different method which I think saves time and preserves sound - I picked it up from a very good luthier.

Proviso - you must accept some loss of wrap. If this is not acceptable, you have to do whatever you can. I have even photographed wrap, printed it on to thick paper and glued/epoxied over it to the shell, when I couldn't scavenge enough wrap to do the job.

I size up the hole carefully and then, using a hole saw blade, I cut out; or using a dremel, round out the hole to a circle. WARNING: old wrap, if not fully bonded, will shatter - so you must cut a circle into this first with a very sharp blade. Mark everything out and take your time.

Then I prepare a plug. I use high quality maple, but any sonically pleasing timber would do. Maple is really hard, so I trim a small rectangle and then screw this to a larger piece of scrap wood (countersinking the screws) and use an electric plane to reduce this piece of maple to almost the correct thickness. I draw the plug size on to this - using the same methods you have; then using hand sanding and dremel shaping, make a plug to fit the hole. I adjust the hole and the plug very carefully until they are a very tight fit. Then I glue the plug in and fill/sand to finish.

Using this method, I have patched some horrible holes in classic shells and made them strong enough to screw snare throws/buts/tom holders in to.

If it sounds fiddly - it is. But any handyperson can do it - with patience. Good luck.

yeah im sure their are a few ways to do it. i was really just interested in taking as little of the original shell away as possible so i am actually going to put back each ply one piece at a time and glue and clamp it all at once. if i was actually trying to make this solid enough to hang the drum from im sure i would have to use the method you described, but since the original tom mount is on the other side of the drum i think this will work fine. thanks,ryan

I used a wood dowl rod to fill some holes, but i rewrapped the drum. it was extremly easy and worked out perfect.