Looking forward to pics of the kit and the bearing edge. I agree that some 70 to 73 ish kits had some rough times. I have a Rogers 72,3 BB kit that the toms just rock back and forth on a granite surface. Have not done a thing to it because I bought it new in 73 and am keeping the mojo of original. Got a New England White kit a tad earlier 71,2 ,same thing. Redid the edges and holy smokes what a difference. Just squared them up and very easily went over the edges with a 45 degree router bit. Some of the original speckled paint is still on the edges. But what a difference in sound. Edges do make a difference.

Ed

Hi Dan!

I'm really happy to hear how great your edges turned out! To be honest, I'm not surprised, though, as Chris is a fanatical perfectionist! Every time I go to his shop, there are single drums from quite a few "famous" drummers waiting for Chris to work his magic with restoration. As you've seen with your Rogers edges, Chris is able to copy the original edge design from just about all the most popular drums of the time. If I were to send my drums back to Ludwig right now, there is no way they would know that any work had been done. Well, I take that back... they might start wondering why ALL the edges are LEVEL! LoLoLoLo Sorry Ludwig, I couldn't resist!

Mark

Yes, edges do make a difference - arguably the largest of all the differences between drums.

I haven´t much knowledge of Rogers - I have had a Fullerton era Powertone set once, and the edges were generally OK on them, but nothing I would have been proud of making myself. The Memriloc hardware an earlier owner grafted onto them, was what killed any resonance in the shells.

But I have seen lousy edges on Premiers from the early/mid-seventies.

And sod originality in that area - the edges must be made to help the heads resonate as desired.

First and most important - the edges must be made flat by sanding on an even surface.

Thereafter the profile must be recreated all the way around the shell. Working with a router is nice if you have one, but sandpaper wrapped around a block is fine too. Hold the block in the desired angle and move along the bearing edge, noting where material must be removed is easy when looking for the areas where the initial flattening has created flat areas - I mark the flat areas up with a pencil, and the work is done when the flat area has the same width all around the perimeter - @ ½ mm is fine, up to 1 mm OK.

Merry X-mas and a happy new year to all!

Jon