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Here's The Situation......

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OK, so you've got a vintage kit with a sparkle finish comprised of a bass drum, rack tom and snare drum. Everything's original on it, including all the hardware. Obviously, you're missing the floor tom.

One day you decide that you want to add a floor tom to the kit made by the same manufacturer during the same time period. The problem is, every time you buy one, the sparkle finish doesn't match, since your three drums were rarely used, never left the house, and have been kept in soft cases FOREVER. There is little to no fade on the sparkle finish.

You give up on trying to find an actual floor time that matches, but decide to purchase a floor tom shell from the same manufacturer and same time period. You then contact several of the known drum wrap places, request samples of their sparkle finishes to see which ones which provide the closest match to what you've got. Miracle of miracles, you actually find one that will work very nicely.

The decision now is whether to glue or tape so you investigate the re-wrapping process thoroughly and, after countless hours, are no closer to deciding which is better and why, then when you first started. You find out that some folks swear by the glue method, while others have found it to be a nightmare. Some say tape is the way to go, while others tell horror stories about this method. The drum wrap companies all have their own say in the matter but, obviously, someone isn't being honest here!

This is where you drum experts come in. If you were in this situation, which route would you take? Again, it's only for one floor tom, as the rest of the kit has the original wrap in pristine condition.

THANKS in advance for your input! Help2

Posted on 16 years ago
#1
Posts: 5173 Threads: 188
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A faded, vintage Ludwig with the original everything is more valuable. A rewrap is basically worth whatever value a player might find, but the collectibility is gone.

Tape method is a horrible choice for applying wrap -period.

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 16 years ago
#2
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I rewrapped a set of orphans. I did not even consider tape.

As for the set......... is the floor tom missing? or did that SET even have a floor tom to begin with? For example, the 1964 Rogers Catalogue shows a Viking Kit........ 14x20, 8x12, with a 5x14 Powertone in either wood or COB for 395.00. No Floor Tom. Granted, that set wont bring what a four piece set will bring in the same condition, and the difference will be significant. To rewrap a floor tom that needs a wrap...... is not hurting the drum. If the finish is a close match.........you have a nice presentable set up. Just bear in mind that if you decide to sell, you arent going to get the same dollar as you would for a true four piecer.

Rogers Drums Big R era 1975-1984 Dating Guide.
http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=24048
Posted on 16 years ago
#3
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I'm not sure if the 3-piece kit originally came with a floor tom, since I'm not the original owner.

I'm aware that a re-wrapped drum isn't considered a "collectible" piece per se and also doesn't have nearly the value as one with its original wrap.

I was simply thinking of using the kit down the road, since it's in such nice shape and thought that, if I did so, I'd like to add a floor tom to it. The shell that I purchased had already been "stripped" down to the wood, so it wasn't like I had to remove any type of "original" wrap.

Being aware of the lesser value of the floor tom, I was simply trying to find out which method of re-wrap made the most sense.

Appreciate the feedback to date!

Posted on 16 years ago
#4
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And Ive seen a bare nekkid stripped down Rogers 14x14 Cleveland for beavers go off at 687.00. Thats pretty damn collectable in anyones book. Someone had the lust. Now, I wouldnt have paid that. But I dont have the Lust.

Rogers Drums Big R era 1975-1984 Dating Guide.
http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=24048
Posted on 16 years ago
#5
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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I was told that the tape is used a lot by marching bands because they change the colors more often. The contact cement can be a pain, it is not very forgiving. Once it makes contact there is no going back. Its all about patience when working with it. Go for the glue.

Posted on 16 years ago
#6
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Which colour was it, by the way?

I'm actually considering doing a "makeshift" wrap on a kit which I eventually (I don't in which parallel universe this is in) will get properly lacquered and in that case I'm thinking tape so I can easily get it off again.

If you want it to stay put I'd say contact cement. It's always worked for me.

Posted on 16 years ago
#7
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Antipodes:

I have no idea what color what was previously on the shell. We're going to be covering it with a silver sparkle finish.

Posted on 16 years ago
#8
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