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Help with Beverly snare drum...

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Last night I went to a consignment auction and purchased a Beverly snare drum for $35. I've been looking for an spare snare drum and fell in love with the color of this one. I know very little about Beverly (and vintage drums in general) - only what I've learned in the last hour doing some research on various sites.

I'm wondering if anyone can help date this particular snare drum and/or provide more information about the model. As you can see in the photos, it has a round gold badge that says "Made in England" underneath "Beverly". The drum has 6 lugs that require a flat-head screwdriver. The pearl wrap is a beautiful aqua color in real-life, which looks more blue in the photos. It has a New Era snare and Everplay heads.

Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Best, MT

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 513 Threads: 102
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Lovely drum! Beverley were made by the same people who made Premier drums. They had the same shells but different hardware. I'm pretty sure that badge is 1960's, possibly late 50's too. The slotted rods were common on most drums up until the late 70's/ early 80s.

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Posted on 12 years ago
#2
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Is that a 12" snare? Looks small to me.

You MAY have an issue with the re-ring separating from the shell, it doesn't happen often but a few have been known to come loose (not enough glue at factory). Just glue them back with Tite Bond and clamp.

Otherwise Bev's are a nice drum.

Posted on 12 years ago
#3
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Beverley was sold in 1959 to Albert Della Porta who arranged to have them produced in the Premier factory, of which he also was a principal owner. Originally , the idea was for Beverley to continue as a separate company with production out of the Premier shops but in practicality , by about 1965 they became almost identical to Olympics(Premier's second string)with only lug design separating them.

They are nice little drums with typical quality Premier birch shells. The throwoff is the weak point(the same one is on Olympic). It is quite flimsy and its lubrication points(guidepin,rivets on lever,slide rail,thread,knob bushing) will need attention by now to keep it smooth. Once the guidepin and rivets get a bit worn they can bind and the next thing you know the mechanism starts jamming and the lever bends.

Don't use a screwdriver in the tensioner heads.They weren't designed for that. You will eventually splay the heads and destroy them. Keep your eyes peeled for a slot type key . Most are 8mm and that is what you want but a 9mm(Sonor used these) will work. Temporarily , you can grind a flat end on a thick washer and use that. There is someone advertising new keys for slot heads on ebay all the time that are supposed to fit the standard sized ones, which would be the 8mm. Apparently they work on Premier.

Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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