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Gretsch hoops

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From Jaye

[COLOR="Blue"]...probably $100/pair....WalkingCryBaby[/COLOR] ?

Actually, I found you can still get these from a regular Gretsch dealer.....yep 12" 5-luggers.......about $110 a piece though.....

Posted on 15 years ago
#11
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From mcjnic

I played a Gretsch kit with the same shells. If I could suggest something for you...If you were to treat the edges with a good wax...and...treat the insides of the shells with hardwax oil...Your drums would seriously open up. I worked my shells over like this and was amazed with the results. I made a video comparison. Nice stuff.

Hardwax oil? never heard of it....what is it and where do you get it? Wouldn't the traditional Gretsch silver sealer galvy fence paint do the same thing?

Posted on 15 years ago
#12
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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Maybe a "Minwax" paste wax? 100.00 each, thats steep. I am going to go checkout how they sound at the store first. Thanks for all the help.

Posted on 15 years ago
#13
Posts: 2628 Threads: 40
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[COLOR="Indigo"]Use tung oil (easy to get hold of). Or Carnuba wax, pure form (less easy, you need to get it from a woodworking supply shop). You could use an auto wax which contains carnuba wax, too...but they have so many other unnecessary additives, on a wood shell...I wouldn't.

Yes, one of those on the interiors and edges (after fine-sanding to at least 180 or 220) tightens up the density of the surface so the sound bounces around in there more, making the drum more responsive and 'alive' sounding. The only thing is, aren't Gretsch interiors painted ? So wouldn' one have to sand off the factory paint first ? Would you wanna do that ?[/COLOR]

www.2ndending.com
Posted on 15 years ago
#14
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From Jaye

[COLOR="Indigo"]Use tung oil (easy to get hold of). Or Carnuba wax, pure form (less easy, you need to get it from a woodworking supply shop). You could use an auto wax which contains carnuba wax, too...but they have so many other unnecessary additives, on a wood shell...I wouldn't.Yes, one of those on the interiors and edges (after fine-sanding to at least 180 or 220) tightens up the density of the surface so the sound bounces around in there more, making the drum more responsive and 'alive' sounding. The only thing is, aren't Gretsch interiors painted ? So wouldn' one have to sand off the factory paint first ? Would you wanna do that ?[/COLOR]

The Catalina Jazz series are actually imports for gretsch and have raw interior luan shells, but they are high quality....so go figure. No sealer on the insides of them.

Posted on 15 years ago
#15
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Luan shells have gotten much improved over the years, actually. Luan will really soak up tung oil, but it works well on them if sanded fine.

Posted on 15 years ago
#16
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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I have to say I am really impressed with this kit! Yes they have raw luan interiors but I feel it gives them a real warm tone in addition to a lot of low end which I really dig. The tom mount puts the rack tom just where I like it and the hardware is pretty sturdy. The snare even sounds kind of good. So for the money they can't be beat. Except for the occasional great vintage find for cheap!!!! I think I'll keep them just as is and put the cash towards the elusive perfect ride.

Posted on 15 years ago
#17
Posts: 2628 Threads: 40
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[COLOR="Green"]A good pal o' mine out here, EW Wainwright, a real ol-timer and just a master, master jazz and Afro-cuban player, has a ton of kits ranging from'50's Slingys to '60's Rogers to '70's Luddies.

He often uses his Catalina on small-combo jazz gigs...and it really sounds just fine.

I think kits like the Catalina and the Tama Stagestar are really very decent, budget-priced 18" rigs. A good deal for the $. The Tamas add an interior ply of birch to their Luan shells....so I might nudge 'em just ahead of the Gretsch kit.

Lucky, if you wanted to get more bounceback in the toms and bass drum, go with tung....even just 1 coat consistently applied. If you are happy with how they sound now, leave 'em.[/COLOR]

www.2ndending.com
Posted on 15 years ago
#18
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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When I would bring my vintage kit to a gig I was always worried about them. Most of the venues I play are small and this kit fits perfect. Like I said in a previous thread, I think I am going to the flat based hardware and a bass mounted cymbal L arm to make this as light as possible.

Posted on 15 years ago
#19
Posts: 3972 Threads: 180
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Hey,

Hardwax oil is NOT anything like those other products the members listed. It is something that is used on high traffic floors, is very natural, and very very durable. It's forms a harder coat which is outstanding for the insides of these drums. It DEEPLY penetrates this particular wood (very porous and unfinished) and does a better job than any of the other products I've tried. The difference is very noticeable. It opens the drums up and gives them more depth and resonance. I also sanded the edges (as someone else pointed out) and used a good edge wax on them. These drums are cheap. After you treat the shells, the kit does not sound like the lower end gigging kit it started life as. Here is the link. Get yourself the small container and give it a whirl.

http://www.vtpf.com/finishes.html

A lot of people use this wax or that wax or this sealer or whatever. This goes way beyond those products. It's perfect for the insides of drums.

I used two coats on the deeper drums and four coats on the smaller drums and snare. I wanted more ring on the high end. You can adjust the coats for your own tastes.

Posted on 15 years ago
#20
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