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Green Vistalite - What have I gotten myself into...

Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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I have a large (~12" diameter) buffing wheel I used on guitars, and it works great on drums too!

I have never worked with Vistalites before, but with appropriate compounds (3M makes a slew of good ones, but get the pro stuff not the consumer stuff) I'm sure I could make a nasty vistalite gleam again.

When sanding (and buffing) it is normal to give up early and go for the finer grade. With a freshly applied finish, we were starting with 600 (sometimes courser, depending on imperfections), then 1000 and then int the compounds. There are several we used but the main ones were 3M heavy cut (not used often), Medium cut and fine cut. There was/is also a swirl mark remover that sometimes was used, but the finer compounds we purchased as solid bars you would load the wheel with rather than load the item. A final treat might be Meguir's clear plastic cleaner, polish and finally detailer (usually just needed on gloss black). These last items will work well on your transparent finish too if you haven't tried them.

It sounds as if you have a good system going, but you need to spend more time with each compound before switching to the next.

Oh, most critical: Always use new, clean cloths/applicators as you proceed finer through the compounds, and a wash with a bit of dish soap in water between grades is highly recommended. This avoids rubbing in courser grit from heavier stages as you proceed through finer stages...

PS paper finer than ~600 (maybe 400) will not level the surface very well, but rather will follow it (more important when blocking out a paint or clear). Also, a drop of dish soap in your wet sanding water is a good idea and helps keep the paper from loading. Change the water often too!

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 11 years ago
#11
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Ok so I am continuing my restoration of the green vistas! I got the heads in today, let me know what you think! Also, still having issues with the shells. They just don't look like glass like I want. When you hold them to the light you can still see sanding/polishing marks. Very frustrated but I'm going to give a few more things a shot. For now, enjoy the heads!

-Beau

[IMG]http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee342/beaubruns/photo-2_zpseb11dd32.jpg[/IMG]

1969 Ludwig Big Beat Mod Orange 12/13/16/22
1976 Ludwig Green Vistalite 12/13/16/22 & 5 1/2x14
1940 Ludwig & Ludwig Universal Concert Snare 6.5x14
2013 C&C Aged WMP 13/16/22


beaubruns.tumblr.com
cowboyindianbear.com
Posted on 11 years ago
#12
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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If you are seeing the scratches, you need to spend more time on each step to be absolutely sure the previous steps sanding or polishing scratches are completely removed. This is the final frontier in making a good painter a great one: the ability to know when they are done with a step before moving on to the next one.

Needless to say: it is a LOT of work! (and why a good paint job costs so much more than a crappy one)

Those heads are awesone! That will look like a factory fresh kit when you are done! I'd be afraid to play them!

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 11 years ago
#13
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If you are seeing the scratches, you need to spend more time on each step to be absolutely sure the previous steps sanding or polishing scratches are completely removed. This is the final frontier in making a good painter a great one: the ability to know when they are done with a step before moving on to the next one.Needless to say: it is a LOT of work! (and why a good paint job costs so much more than a crappy one)Those heads are awesone! That will look like a factory fresh kit when you are done! I'd be afraid to play them!

Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I had half a mind to just put them back together today because I'm so frustrated. Should I just start over with the sanding or pick up mid grit? How can I be sure I'm ready to move on to the next grit when wet sanding? Do you use a block?

-Beau

1969 Ludwig Big Beat Mod Orange 12/13/16/22
1976 Ludwig Green Vistalite 12/13/16/22 & 5 1/2x14
1940 Ludwig & Ludwig Universal Concert Snare 6.5x14
2013 C&C Aged WMP 13/16/22


beaubruns.tumblr.com
cowboyindianbear.com
Posted on 11 years ago
#14
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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You have to use the force to know when to move to the next step...

Unfortunately, the "feel" or "eye" for it only comes with experience. Generally, by the time you get two steps up, you can see that you have to go back and repeat the last step to remove the scratches from two steps ago.

You need REALLY good light- like one of those 300 watt halogen work lights, to see the scratches, or direct unclouded sunlight.

And yes, I always use a block when I can- a rubber one from 3M brand for a quarter sheet of paper- and DON'T skimp on the paper! Use good quality 3M or Norton paper- not ocen state job lot specials!

EDIT=> I forgot to mention that you IN ALL CASES should not go any more aggressive than you need to- so, if the shells are no longer transparent due to scratching, this may require starting at 600 grit. Normally, I would expect a heavy cut compound to be the most aggressie thing needed...

600 SiC paper

1000 SiC

1500 SiC

3M med cut

3M fine cut (you may go right to fine after 1500- again, this is experience)

(I have solid bar compound which is finer than the 3M fine cut I use here)

plastic cleaner

plastic polish

plastic detailer

If at any point you see large random scratches, you need to go back a step and do that one again.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 11 years ago
#15
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