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First-timer restoring an old set of Rogers XP-8s

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Hello, everyone. I'm a multi-instrumentalist and, also, a lifelong cheapskate. I grew up playing daily on a late 60s Ludwig kit that belonged to my school, and I've always wanted a good set of old maple shells. But by the time in my life that I could find room for an actual set of my own, eBay had already come along and put most such kits out of my rational price range. I've spent the last 10+ years playing on newer / cheaper drums while trying to find a nice vintage set, or vintage *project* set, at a price I could deal with.

Last week I found this poor set of all-maple XP-8s for $50 on Craigslist, and that seemed to qualify nicely. While it's been botched by a previous owner's horrifying paint job, everything is there hardware-wise, more or less, and the shells are mostly in quite decent condition.

[IMG]http://lossfoundation.com/ak/rogers.jpg[/IMG]

With help from Ploughman's information on the XP-8 line, I've determined that this set is a no-serial '80-'81 kit. The config is a little odd and not something I can yet find listed in any of Rogers' catalogs-- 22x14, 16x16, and two 13x9 rack toms. But the drums all seem to match under the lugs, so I'm guessing this was a custom-order setup. I normally only use a single rack tom and a floor tom on my kits anyway, so right now I'm looking at this as having a convenient "extra" rack tom.

The original finish was a California Red lacquer, which you can see quite clearly under the removed lugs. I don't usually care much for red drums, but I actually *like* this red. Such a pity that it's unsalvageable at this point...

[IMG]http://lossfoundation.com/ak/shells.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://lossfoundation.com/ak/lacquer.jpg[/IMG]

The PO painted not only the shells but the lugs, claws, and badges in the same sloppily-applied matte black.

[IMG]http://lossfoundation.com/ak/memriloc.jpg[/IMG]

I'm in the process of cleaning *that* mess up today and hopefully getting things back to their original chromed state (two lugs down, 58 to go...). The paint has also found its way onto a couple of the outside bearing edges, so they'll all be in need of a good careful sand-down.

The other thing I'm dealing with, which I already posted about in this issue-specific thread, is a copious amount of what appears to be either good ol' Elmer's glue or wood glue on the inside of the two 13x9 rack toms. This is a remnant from the PO gluing egg-crate foam all the way around the inside of the shells to deaden the batter heads through direct contact. Trrrragic. I'm still figuring out how to totally get this stuff off, and a few common chemical remedies having failed, it looks like sanding will be the only way.

I knew I would want to wrap rather than re-lacquer the drums as soon as I saw them. I'm trying a budget approach to wrapping first, using this potentially-controversial marina-vinyl method as discussed on the Pearl Drummers' Forum.

If the "cheapskate wrap" method doesn't turn out either visually or sonically, I'll just pull it, plunk down for proper wrap, write off the original $50 and start over. I've decided to cover the shells in a pistachio-sparkle vinyl wrap, two yards of which should reach me by end of week. I absolutely love this color.

[IMG]http://lossfoundation.com/ak/pistachio.jpg[/IMG]

The next question, and one I'm here to ask as I start up this little restore-story thread, is how to best prep the shells.

This is my first time taking on this kind of project and I've not worked much with wood or finishes in general. My personal feeling, particularly after reading around, is that the paint *and* factory lacquer should be totally sanded off before the wrap is applied.

I have some woodworking- (but not drum-) knowledgeable pals who have looked at the shells closely as they are, and they think this approach is nuts / way too much work, given that I'll be wrapping them anyway. They suggest that I simply sand them "smooth enough," and then possibly re-spray the shells with primer or white before slapping on the "wrap."

I will HAPPILY take any input regarding the above. I am not doing any sanding, let alone respraying, until I have the fake wrap in hand later this week and can see for myself how opaque it really is. I've got 58 lugs and 20 bass drum claws to clean anyway in the meantime. :)

Nice to meet y'all and I'll post back here as more progress transpires!

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
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I've just gone down this road with a set of no-serial XP-8s.

First of all, I don't think the red under the lugs is the original finish, I think it's another coat of red paint. The original finish is what you see at the gouges.

Did you try lacquer thinner? If you don't care about the original finish you can be pretty aggressive with it. I found out that what was thought to be a lacquer finish is not (at least on my set!) - apparently they were using poly by 1980.

You can soak a rag in thinner and let it sit in one spot for 45-60 secs, see if the paint starts to come off. I ended up dunking my shells in thinner and scraping off the paint.

The interiors are likely waxed, so you'll see some of that come off if you get the thinner inside, but it won't hurt the wood.

I sanded the interiors just to get the overspray/dirt/wax/grime off and then applied 2 coats of Howard's Feed & Wax.

Posted on 12 years ago
#2
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I would suggest a product called Krud Kutter to soak the lugs in. This will eventually remove the paint, it will take days but its safe and easy. Go buy a gallon of it , fill up a coffee can and put in the lugs. As far as the paint on the shells, its always better to remove existing paint before using contact cements just so you know the contact cement wont eat the paint and goof up the adhesion. Try the lac thinner as suggested if that dont work then you will have to get a good stripper or take a sander with some 80 grit and grind it off. Thats my advice anyway, take it or leave it.

JC


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
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I once took an XP-8 10" concert tom to a young drum smith (works for Sleishman) for a bottom bearing edge. Normally a quiet bloke, he made a point of commenting on the quality of the shell. When I told him it was 30 years old, he was astonished. "Top shelf - like a DW custom" was his comment. And it was perfectly round, too.

If you have no extra holes, I would be seriously considering stripping back to wood; then going for a simple finish like tung oil or shellac. Cheaper than wrap - more labor.

These drums were very well made. The Memriloc stuff - well - it's intrusive. But the shells are really good, imo. $00.02

Home Of The Trout
YouTube Channel
Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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Find a furniture restoration shop that has a tank for stripping finishes. Bring the 3 bare shells over there and have them dipped. It's the easy way and will cost about $75 or less. I've done this with 2 kits in similar shape and they came out very well, and were able to be nicely rewrapped.

Easy easy easy way to go.

Soak the hardware in one of the paint strippers from Home Depot etc, that'll get the paint off.

That kit looks like it's been painted twice, after the original wrap was stripped off. You can see the maple thru the deep scratches. If it was still wrapped under the paint, all you could see would be the wrap under the scratches.

Posted on 12 years ago
#5
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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The Motsenbockers lift off I mentioned in the other thread worked very well on my painted lugs. Many were spray painted a dull silver color for whatever reason. I removed the T rod inserts, springs and felts. Put them in a old small tupperware container and sprayed them down and let them sit 5-10 min. I worked them with a old toothbrush and the old paint came right off. No harm to the chrome finish and they look wonderful. Oh wear some type of gloves, nitrile (best) or vinyl (ok) or even old rubber dishwashing gloves. Just to protect your hands and skin from exposure while using any types of chemicals.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#6
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