I use either Elmers in the tube, or Plastic Wood. The Elmers in the tube is much more easier, sometimes, but after the tube is halfway down, it gets harder to use as the tube...anyway, it really doesn't matter. Plastic Wood is harder to work, and since it is a re-wrap, it really does not matter.

The plastic woods will work since it is a re-wrap on top, but they are soft. I now use 2 part expoxy for all my wood drum repairs. It dries hard as cement, and is clearly harder and will last longer than the wood itself. You can put 2 part epoxy on a bearing edge dent or gouge, then use your router to cut a new bearing edge and that epoxy repair will take the router bit no problem. Any 2 part expoxy will work, but the marine epoxy was recommended to me by an old drum builder. In a pinch, I've used JB Weld, works superb too.

Yes. Thanks for the tip. I've been using the 2 part wood epoxy as the guy at home depot recommended it also. I was able to round out the shells and the wrap took well (Precision method). The only thing left is the wrap didn't quite 'take'DOH on one shell where the overlap is (wrap glued to wrap). Seam is tight but there is a bubble about 1 1/2" from seam. Trying the heat and clamp method to smooth it out. Bubble not really noticeable but I'm not sure what it will do in the long run...Coffee Break2 i'm just babysittin it deciding whether to get radical. Seam is REAL tight..

I've re-wrapped a fair number of drums lately. What I learned is this: Sand the underside of the wrap with the maroon scotchbrite pads to rough the surface to ensure the glue sticks better. This is most important at that seam overlap. Scuff the outer layer of the wrap at the seam also where the other wrap will lay on top of it. The glue sticks better to a scuffed surface. Wipe the residue after you scuff sand with a painters tack rag.

To press the wrap to the shell and the overlap get yourself a rubber "laminate roller", used by kitchen counter laminate installer. Basically it's a rubber roller about 4 inches wide that works great to force out all bubbles. I bought mine at Lowes, you can find a pic on their website. Laminate roller runs about 10 bucks. For glue, use 3M 30NF I believe are the numbers. Accept no substitutes. Precision sells it so I assume that's what you used.

I've fixed seam problems also. Use a hair dryer or heat gun on LOW!!! to heat the wrap and gently peel it back. Remove all glue with contact cement remover and\or sand it off. Then use your 3M glue and reattach, and roll hard with your laminate roller. Good luck.

OK. Basically i'm using the same process BUT did not rough the surfaces. That makes sense to me. Also I guess it's time TO buy that laminate roller and prepare to re-do the seam. oNCE it is peeled back, can I use naphtha to remove old glue?