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Easy removable rivets?

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I bought a bag of them at Piano's N' Stuff down in Blawnox. They are about a dime apiece. I just had my son hold the cymbal over the anvil on my bench vise and gave the rivet a good whack with a hammer and punch to expand the hole a bit to keep it on there. Before that, I used roofing nails and they kept flying out of the cymbal.....Falling Do

As for removal, I haven't done it yet, but if it takes me longer than ten seconds with an American made pair of pliers, I would be surprised.

Toodles

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Posted on 12 years ago
#11
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The split rivets (chrome, not copper or brass) that you buy at the hardware store. You just put them in, seperate the ends with a flat head screwdriver, and you're good to go. If you want to flare the ends out 90 degrees, you can easily do that with needle nose pliers. I think they are better balanced and "dance" a little better when flared out 90 degrees as opposed to just flaring them out slightly. To remove, simply "un-flare" them and take them out. The rivet will be pretty much shot after that, but they are only about 20 cents a piece or so.

I agree wth drumaholic. Brass and copper rivets sound terrible. Very muted and choked sustain. Keep in mind that the longer and heavier the rivet and the larger the rivet head, the more pronounced the sound will be (and the the less sustain the rivet will have). Opposite, the shorter and lighter the rivet and smaller the head, the more subtle the sizzle will be (and the longer it will last).

I find the split rivets at my hardware store that are the same length and same head size as a Zildjian rivet. These work best. I had some rivets factory installed by Zildjian in a cymbal, and they didn't "dance" or last as long as I would have liked. I replaced them with these same split rivets, and although they are the same head size and length as the Zildjians, the split rivets "danced" better and lasted a bit longer.

I'm a total riveted cymbal geek ( I have 35+), so hit me up if you have any more questions. This is one topic that is defintley in my "wheel house".

Posted on 12 years ago
#12
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From mlvibes

I have a handful of snap rivets that are great for easy installation/removal. They just snap together. They're made for leather craft, purses, etc, and come in many different sizes and metals.[img]http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/9/9/6/8/3/1/webimg/586387433_o.jpg[/img]-Bill

That's an interesting idea here!

Posted on 12 years ago
#13
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From vyacheslav

The split rivets (chrome, not copper or brass) that you buy at the hardware store. You just put them in, seperate the ends with a flat head screwdriver, and you're good to go. If you want to flare the ends out 90 degrees, you can easily do that with needle nose pliers. I think they are better balanced and "dance" a little better when flared out 90 degrees as opposed to just flaring them out slightly. To remove, simply "un-flare" them and take them out. The rivet will be pretty much shot after that, but they are only about 20 cents a piece or so.I agree wth drumaholic. Brass and copper rivets sound terrible. Very muted and choked sustain. Keep in mind that the longer and heavier the rivet and the larger the rivet head, the more pronounced the sound will be (and the the less sustain the rivet will have). Opposite, the shorter and lighter the rivet and smaller the head, the more subtle the sizzle will be (and the longer it will last).I find the split rivets at my hardware store that are the same length and same head size as a Zildjian rivet. These work best. I had some rivets factory installed by Zildjian in a cymbal, and they didn't "dance" or last as long as I would have liked. I replaced them with these same split rivets, and although they are the same head size and length as the Zildjians, the split rivets "danced" better and lasted a bit longer.I'm a total riveted cymbal geek ( I have 35+), so hit me up if you have any more questions. This is one topic that is defintley in my "wheel house".

Funny you mention about the length...something I had been thinking about. The ones I had installed are on the short side, and I noticed not as much sustain. I have one pie in mind where I'll probably want to use the longer rivet. And this is the one cymbal that I'd like take them in and out of...the other rivet cymbals I'll probably always just leave those in.

Posted on 12 years ago
#14
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From Drumaholic

Copper and brass rivets are not nearly as effective as nickel plated steel. Their sizzle is anemic.

Thanks for the tip. I can't stand a whimpy sizzle when I'm looking for that. Although I have a few cymbals that I'm okay with them being more subtle.

Posted on 12 years ago
#15
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From Drumaholic

I use regular steel rivets. I tape a small square of masking tape right in the middle. Then I take the square piece and stick it in the down on the rivet and crimp it back on itself. Then if you ever wan't to take all or some out, it can be easily done. Also this methods has the advantage of allowing you to have the benefit of real sizzle rivets instead of the anemic sizzle you'd get from, say an Office Max brass fastener. And that's more or less what those Bosphorous rivets are like anyway. They suck.This makes the process easily reversable and allows you to experiment with varying numbers and locations of rivets. I'll bet nobody over at Cymbalholic has any better solution.

Lol. I'm a recent member over there as well. I love everyone, but my primary forum loyalty is right here at VDF. I'm convinced these cats at VDF know what's up!!!

Posted on 12 years ago
#16
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