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Drying time for stain ?

Posts: 1880 Threads: 292

Something strange is happening with the my staining process..

I've almost completed the staining on one of my bass drum hoops and most of it has dried quickly to the touch. The other is fully dried, although i haven't done the edges yet.. 4 days ago, i started the edges of one hoop and for some reason, this time around they haven't dried or cured fully. It's dry, but slightly sticky to the touch. The temperature in my home has been the same, and as a matter of fact, has even drier conditions than the first time i started staining.

I kept them hanging in my gear room with door open, with the edges fully exposed for drying. I've now put them on my backyard balcony, in the shade and away from the sun. Conditions today are perfect, with sunny skies and dry, fresh air. Has anyone experienced this long for drying time with stains before, and if so, is there anything else i can

do to speed up the drying process ?

Posted on 8 years ago
#1
Posts: 536 Threads: 69

Now? Not really.

Yer already doing all you can. just wait it out.

I always give stain a solid week.

Did you apply any type of wood conditioner before stain? was it completely dry.

Sounds like the wood may have taken more stain or more deeply in those areas. Is the grain different there?

If you cut your stain with more solvent when you apply it, it will dry faster but you will have to apply more coats to get the desired shade.

60's Sonor Teardrops & 70s Premier AMs
Sabian
Vic Firth
Remo/Evans

"unless it's vintage, it's just another wooden tube."
Posted on 8 years ago
#2
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576

To be safe 24 to 48 hours depending on humidty

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 8 years ago
#3
Posts: 6170 Threads: 255

When painting or staining, I actually use hand held hair dryer to accelerate the process. Just use it sparingly. Don't get it too hot or get too close.

Posted on 8 years ago
#4
Posts: 241 Threads: 2

your saying the face has dried to the touch, but the edges are staying sticky, may be stain is reacting to glue in the plys?

Posted on 8 years ago
#5
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576

The tough part about stains wether they are lacquer , oil , latex, alcohol, or acetone base they all have there quirks and for the lay man keeping it simple is the best way be patient and the results will be worth it ....

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 8 years ago
#6
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

Another reason to not "stain" the wood directly but to tint a clear shader.

Now you need to wait it out. Hopefully you are not bag get a reaction between glue and the stain as suggested above. That could compromise the glue joint...

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#7
Posts: 1880 Threads: 292

Thanks for all the insight and advice guys, i really appreciate it. So i just went ahead and resanded the first coat of stain on the edges with 000 steel wool and restained. Now it's as it should be..Dried quickly and stain is looking good. I'm assuming it might have been too much stain the first time around, and probably nothing to do with the ply glue.

All trial and error for me, and i don't mind it one bit because i'm having fun doing it. ;)

The drums are a player's kit, but a kit in very good condition nevertheless..

It's also good to know that there are so many experienced forum members we can all count on for advice on just about anything vintage drum and maintenance related. This is why i love this forum, and proud to be a part of it ! ;)

Posted on 8 years ago
#8
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

Glad it worked out for you!

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#9
Posts: 1651 Threads: 215

I had a recent stain encounter that actually turned out to be a blessing ( and a new trick ) Was staining one of the MIJ kits I have to give it a nice Mahogany color. Nothing too dark or too light. But something simple and classy. Did my usual routine and started with the toms. Came out as expected, perfect. Then I get to the bass drum. The stain wasn't soaking in. Gave it a good two days before it was finally dry and man does it look even better than the toms. My guess after really looking at it is this - somewhere along the way before I got the drum it had been given a quick clear coat or Lacquer or Poly. And though I sanded the shell before staining, clearly it was deep within the grain. Granted it turned out looking great, but now I have non matching toms,lol. This is why I love working with my hands though. You encounter something, learn and move on with new knowledge and understanding.

18 Kits & 40+ snares..
Not a Guru, just addicted to drums

- Jay
Posted on 8 years ago
#10
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