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Does This Offend Anyone?

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From Purdie Shuffle

>As far as hurting the value of the kit, that's been done already, a nicely executed mod might be more helpful than harmful at this point.Truth, does Yoda speak!John

John,

Have you been watching SPIKE TV the last couple of days? :)

Bill

Bill
Cherryvale, Ks
"Redrums - Ks" on FB and Reverb
(also "billnvick" on eBay)
Posted on 12 years ago
#21
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This is the chrome cap I've had in place while deciding what to do. I believe this drum originally had the longer banana rail, based on the holes that were patched.

If I try to keep it original and get the rail, I'm stuck with the chrome cap being visible. If I go with the center post, it could pass as being original with no visible mods on top...

If it were blue sparkle I wouldn't give a crap....

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Posted on 12 years ago
#22
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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Can you reposition a banana using the original upper two holes and hide the chrome cap that way?

Or are the lugs in the way of that?

Kevin
Posted on 12 years ago
#23
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Nope, the lugs wouldn't be in the way. The original holes are 8 inches apart on the long side and 1.25 inches on the short side. It would rest a bit off center, to the left, if you're seated behind it.

At it's original mounted position, it would cover half that chrome cap, which would be fine and not that obvious.

I'm always looking for the longer rail, but don't ever see them. I do see the shorter ones a lot, so I could use two of the original holes and go that way too...

In the end, who cares? I don't play out anywhere...just jam with my kid in the basement. And I've put more into it than I'll ever get back...

But I think that's a common problem with these old kits...still love 'em, though..

Posted on 12 years ago
#24
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Stuff will get modified for practical playing purposes. That being said, if you know it is collectible and that a modification or drill will ruin its value, you'd have to be an idiot to drill into an otherwise-collectible shell.

If it has been done long ago, I can understand that. For a simple 3 piece setup, I'd go the snare stand for a rack tom route rather than drill holes.

Still, these ARE somewhat cheapo 60s Japan-made drums, so people are going to be less offended accordingly.

This is just another drummer's opinion. And I play the hell out of my drums--thank you very much!

Posted on 12 years ago
#25
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Which ever way you decide to go... I just gotta say that this might be the SICKEST (by that I mean GOOD) wrap I've ever seen.

Awesome. Period.

Posted on 12 years ago
#26
Posts: 5227 Threads: 555
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From surfcollector

Nope, the lugs wouldn't be in the way. The original holes are 8 inches apart on the long side and 1.25 inches on the short side. It would rest a bit off center, to the left, if you're seated behind it.At it's original mounted position, it would cover half that chrome cap, which would be fine and not that obvious.I'm always looking for the longer rail, but don't ever see them. I do see the shorter ones a lot, so I could use two of the original holes and go that way too...In the end, who cares? I don't play out anywhere...just jam with my kid in the basement. And I've put more into it than I'll ever get back...But I think that's a common problem with these old kits...still love 'em, though..

This is what i would do.I would used a silver cap not chrome and paint it white and add a few black lines to somewhat match the finish on the drum..Have a few questions on the bass drum if i see right i see a round hole up near the top lug on front of shell the lug is on the top left.Is this right if so thats a cymbal mount.This mount is a rounded mount looks like a bass drum leg mount..I also have the rail mount complete new old stock Star one.Another question does the mount use two mounting screws per a side or one mounting screw per a side.Star used these two types of mounts..Mikey

Posted on 12 years ago
#27
Posts: 1432 Threads: 110
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For me that chrome cap looks ok (although I must say I'm a perfectionist in restoring actions).

My alternative suggest: you can cut out a piece (or two) of original wrap from under a lug, which isn't visible anyway.

If you cut out the original wrap so that it fits exactly into that area, noone will notice this afterwards - especially with at finish.

Before doing that, you need to fill the hole with a fitting piece of wood.

Ralf

Vintage STAR (= Pre-Tama) website: www.star-drums.de
Posted on 12 years ago
#28
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If someone runs across another kit in this wrap and you can't scoop it yourself then please let me know- that is such a unique thing.

For info. & live schedule:
www.EricWiegmanndrums.com
*Odery Drums Japan endorser/ representative
*Japan Distributor of Vruk DrumMaster pedals
*D'Addario Japan Evans/Promark/Puresound
*Amedia Cymbals Japan

It's the journey not the destination.
Posted on 12 years ago
#29
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Mikey, no holes for the cymbal mount, unfortunately. That's one thing I wish this had. I have one standing by, but haven't had the guts to put it on...

I'd love to see a pic of the mount you have. TWO hole per side on mine...

The original holes are 8 inches apart, on center, on the long side, and 1.25 inches on the short side.

Posted on 12 years ago
#30
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