Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about.

I've run into the same thing many times. Sometimes I end up getting them out, sometimes I just scream. What I've found is that it was probably cross-threaded from the beginning, or at least at some point in time it was reinstalled and then cross-threaded. A real bummer.

Anyway, a couple of ideas:

1) try getting a little WD40 down the "shaft" then vice-grips on the nub that's sticking up (and try not to get the WD40 on the nub).

2) cut the nub off flush, then try drilling it out with a slightly smaller drill bit (vs. the size of the screw).

Like I said, sometimes I get 'em out, sometimes not.

Good luck!

Bill

OldSchool!...

Try NOT to use vice grips as they almost always crush/bugger up what's left and sticking out. In deference to billnvick, it can work of course!, but I have found this method to always work for me:

Because you have some of the screw sticking up, take a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel and cut into the screw making a "slot" which will resemble a standard screw head which can now be backed out just like a normal screw. A regular screwdriver will do the trick. WD40 AFTER you cut the slot would certainly help in this instance too as billnvick mentioned... especially if the screw is indeed cross-threaded. This method has worked for me every single time given your situation here.

Tommyp

Instead of WD40, try some Liquid Wrench. I like both extraction methods. Maybe try the screwdriver attack first. If that doesn't do it, then cut flush and drill.

That sucks, by the way. I was nervous with the Gretsch kit I just finished. Happily, all the hardware was sound.

Good luck.

B

TommyP,

Hey, I like your Dremmel idea... I hadn't thought of that! DOH

The funny thing about that is that I have a Dremmel and would have used it to cut the nub off flush...

Another good reason I like this forum!! Walking

Bill

You can buy a tool at an auto parts store called a screw extractor. It has a set of reverse threads and comes in different sizes.What you do is drill a tiny hole right in the center of the broken off nub about a quarter of an inch deep, and then use the tool in the hole you just drilled to twist it out. You can even buy a threading tap to restore the original threads back to true. This works fine, but it would still be cheaper to just buy a straight ahead replacement part. Go for it! You can do it.

Glen

Isn't that bit also called an easy out? At least that's what my dad called it.

Yup _ and a very good example of something that is tremendously

Mis-Named _ using those things are a real pain in the butt _ even when they work _ and would hardly be 'easy' in a situation like this.

I realize you weren't exactly endorsing the idea _ leedybdp _ rather just throwing the name out.

I like the Dremel idea much better.

Ohm

Hey guys. When my first Rogers beavertail lugs would strip out. I would throw them away. I know, I was young. Bad idea.

Then I learned about re-tapping the stripped hole and going to the next size up screw. 8/32 would go to 10/24. 10/24 grips better than 10/32.

For a snapped off screw. Drill a center hole in end of broken off screw. I know it is hard to get the center hole started. (Drill press?) Start really small like 1/16. Gradually go bigger with the bit size until it is the size for the new tapping/threading bit. Taps like to go in 3 turns then back out to get the metal shavings off. Tapping oil is recommended.

I still re-tap my old Rogers lugs when they finally go.

Machine Shop Drumming

Thanks SA