Well, good morning. It sux when you have to go to that extremeDOH, but the first thing to do is calm down, have a Coffee Break2 cuppa coffee, and mellow out in your own special way....

I grew up in a house with a mom that was an antique freak, I am all the better for it today. The good news is, maybe not. Have you had a listen to it yet? If you have, and you are still in that over-wrought state of despair, you are gonna notice anything even minutely off. If you take some time to repair your head, and and come back to evenly tempered, you may find that you have done no sonic harm.

If, after a bit of relaxtion, you find it is off, you may need to get to work. The very first thing to do is practice on something other than your actual edges. After you are comfortable, go back to it and lightly bring the edges back to original approximate contour (OAC in engineering terminology), using first a heavier, like 180, then go to 220. And don't forget to wax them with candle wax**. Or, if you have the stomach, and a friend or neighbor in the cabinet making biz, the alternative is to have some more competent re-work them for you. I do all of mine with sandpaper, unless they require deeper cutting. I have used sandpaper since I was a kid, and thats been a few days. In any event, I would not worry about all the "Oh my God, you defiled your edges", since someone beat you to it. All you can do from this point on is "smile, smile, smile", and get those babies back to singing!

I wish you luck, and for your own sake, please be patient.

**Anytime I work on edges, or on any old kit, I will wax the edges, because the wood is old and dry and you have exposed new wood that is not oxidized. This will give you a little more tuning range on any drum, believe it or not.:2Cents:

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Check the drum on a flat surface, do the edges appear to be inconsistent/uneven ?

If so....it's not a hard fix. First, buy some sandpaper, about 80 grit, a lot of it, and adhere it to a flat piece of plywood. Then put the shell on it and start rotation ot back/forth so the edge sands back down to even. This should leave the inside bevel of the ring unaltered, but it'll take down the tip of the bearing edge and the outside-round near to flat again.

...Then find a cabinetmaker or someone handy with a router/routing table, and pay 'em to cut you a small outside-round around the shell edge.

When done, sand it gently to about 180 gr. (80-120-180 or like that), and finish it off with a few coats of Tung oil. Do 2 coats, lights sand w/320 gr, then one or two more coats.

Don' worry, it's not that difficult a resolution...;)[/COLOR]