After I soak hardware over night (or two for some beat up trixon stuff I just got). I wipe them down twice with clean dry paper towel. (I don't worry about a bit of paper shred because this is just the start.) I did used to soak in mineral oil, but the Dawn is easier to work with and less toxic all around.

Once they are as dry as I can get them by hand--which helps clear off the first layer of grunge, I soak them in WD-40--sometimes overnight. I figure WD is about displacing water, so it makes sense to my little mind.

Then I use clean cotton rags and dry the pieces singly by hand. Then a fresh spray of WD40. For the threads I use my thumbnail to track the thread grooves. Up and down a few times, changing the cloth surface as needed. With balky gunk, I sometimes need to give it another shot of WD40. (I also have a pile of toothbrushes when necessary.)

This all works to get the threads clean and almost shiny.

I don't use steel wool, though commonly recommended. Too much potential damage.

Chrome polish. Hand buffed.

Then I lube whatever needs lubing, since WD40 isn't the best for that.

My method is pretty labour intensive, but I only bother soaking stuff like this that is already old and beat up. Having tried to speed up the process in the past, this slow routine has proven most reliable for me.

good luck!

Do you all add grease to the lugs at all, or just leave them alone?

I've always thought this subject was a lot like playing brushes.

Everyone has their personal technique...and as long as things are clean and shiny in the end, there's probably no wrong way to do it.

Like Patrick, my method is also pretty labor intensive.

Any non plated screws or washers that are rusty but cleanable get a quick (and carful) buzz from a brass wire wheel on a bench grinder.

Tension springs and ferrule nuts get a light lube with a product called "Tri-flo"

A machinist/gunsmith turned me on to this stuff awhile ago...it's a light lube but doesn't run, it just sort of hangs on to whatever it's applied.

The only thing I don't like about it is it smells awful.

The plated parts are where things start to get time consuming.

They first get a quick rubbing with Noxon.

This probably isn't doing anything, but in my head, I feel like it's breaking up tarnish and stuff.

After that, they all get a hand polishing with another product that's been around a million years called Simichrome.

This stuff, I can't say enough about. The more you rub, the better it works (stop giggling! :D) and it leaves behind (as far as I can tell) a bit of wax for protection.

Of course, you can go one step further and use a hard wax as someone here mentioned...I always found the best ones to be the cheap, non-fancy type automotive waxes.

Turtle wax, Kit wax....stuff like that.

Finally, in regards to lubing threads on tension rods and so forth, there's 2 things I've always used...and been laughed at about. (That is, until the laugher uses them themselves)

I've always used Royal Crown hair dressing, or Aquaphor moisturizer.

(No...really!

They're both clear, "Clean" (as far as petroleum products go) and stay where you put them.

Just a dab on the fingertip run around the first few threads is all you need.

I hope at least some of this helped.

I'm in work at the moment...when I get home I can try to scrounge up some before and after photos if you're interested.

Also, I hope you're still awake after all this blabbering.

Tri-Flo smells like bananas!Sailing2

Laughing HLaughing HLaughing H

Oh sure!

After 5 or 6 good whiffs it'll smell like anything you want!!!

If you are going to all the trouble to thoroughly clean drum parts, I think it makes sense to use the best possible protectant wax. I restored a vintage Boston Whaler powerboat a few years ago and checked all the boat refinishing forums for the best wax (as the original fiberglass was near perfect). That wax is called Collinite's No. 885 Special Heavy Duty Fleetwax - for Marine and Aeronautical Finishes. I figure if the professionals all agree it's the longest lasting and non-yellowing wax for boats.... well it's gotta be the best for other things. I stripped a couple 20's era cornets to bare brass and used this wax. They look perfect and with much handling since then.

I'm thinking about using it on the WMP of my mid-40s Leedy bass when I get around to cleaning it up. (www.collinite.com)