Prety much how I've been doing it for years, except I use my Milwaukee cordless screwdriver (same one I use for drum head changes) and a cloth soaked with lacquer thinner for the rods, and cotton swabs for the inserts.

That's what I do... with a slight change in the cleaning solution.

I let the tension rods and nuts soak in a warmed ammonia and water mix for about five minutes, and then a rinse in warm water. I do the inside threads first with a .22 cal cleaning brush chucked up in my drill. I use a mineral oil soaked hunk of steel wool (#0000) for the t-rods and exterior of the nuts with the rods in the drill bit drum key.

Works like a champ.

An old kit just doesn't look good if you let the nasty rods muck it up.

I use 000# for the rods, it is a little bit courser and gets a little deeper in the threads. I don't use harsh smelling stuff 'cause I'm a wuss.

Use of steel wool is only advisable in these exact circumstances, folks. Take it from guys that have already screwed up good parts because we believe we are "always right because our daddies said so.." Cleaning the insides of the inserts using a .22 cal cleaning "cone", this is a great addition and a great idea to add to my way, the only right way of course...Excited

Gary, using the screw gun technique to clean the exterior is perfect. I could not, for whatever reason, explain what I am doing in the video. Running the lug insert up and down the rod with steel wool in-hand cleans all that crud off. Just feel a set of old inserts and see what they feel like...yechh

Whooooooah!!! You're in a barker-lounger, sloshing mineral oil around, inventory spread out on your coffee table and a fire going? Dude, your garage is way cooler than mine!!!! Falling Do (No way the Mrs. would let that fly, here.)

B