Hey Jimmy,
Novus and Plastix (made my Meguiar's) are specifically made for plastic material like headlights, boat windshields, plastic bumpers etc.
Either one will work very well. I've used both. I prefer Plastix, because it's much easier to find (any auto parts store), it's cheaper and easier to work with. Novus comes in three choices, 1, 2 or 3. Novus 3 is a heavy scratch remover, which honestly you shouldn't need to use. It's also very hard to buff completely off. Only use this if it's absolutely necessary. Novus 2 is the equivalent to Plastix, which is essentially liquid car wax designed specifically for plastic surfaces. Novus 1 is a spray mist that's the equivalent of Windex for plastic items. That really brings out a nice shine to the shell, and helps prevent fingerprints too.
My system is (after removing all the lugs/hardware):
1. Clean the dirt off with Windex and a microfiber towel, then buff with a clean terry towel.
2. Plastix (or Novus 2). It's like a liquid car polish. Apply with a microfiber towel, then buff off with a microfiber towel and again with a terry towel.
3. Novus #1. This is a mist spray that I spread around with a microfiber towel and let it get hazy, then buff with a terry towel. This step is optional, but gives great results. Even after Step 2 (Novus 2/Plastix) you'll feel how much smoother the wrap is.
That system works great for me. You may have hard time finding Novus, although if you have a Sam Ash in your area you may find some there. Otherwise it's either Amazon or ebay. To the best of my knowledge, no hardware store or large home improvement store like Lowe's carries it. That's why I prefer Plastix; any auto parts store carries it. (I am getting low on Novus 1...I'll have to order more). As far as actual car wax goes, I suppose that could work. I've never tried it on wrap finishes before. I use it on gloss lacquer finishes and it works great. If anything, I would stick with Novus/Plastix, because they are specifically designed for plastic materials, and that's what drum wrap is, plastic.
Finally, from the pics of your kit, that should work well. If you ever come across a kit that is dull or dingy, you can also use an actual headlight restoration kit. I used one once on a silver glitter MIJ kit (really more of a dirty white) and achieved excellent results. This is the kind that involves wet sanding on using a cordless drill as the sander, but it came out great. That is the exception though, not the rule. Most kits can look showroom new again with the Plastix/Novus treatment.
Don't forget to clean all the hardware thoroughly before reassembly. You'll get many opinions on how to clean the chrome the best way. Some say Dawn dish washing soap. Some say Eagle One "Nevr Dull" wadding polish. Some say 000 Steel Wool. It is up to you. I prefer the 000 Steel Wool method. A lot of people oppose that, because it's abrasive, but that always gives me the best results compared to the other methods. People opposed to this method are quick to point out that it adds many, very fine scratches to the chrome that you can't even see. That is certainly true. However, my counter-argument is always the fact that if it's from the 60's or 70's, doesn't the chrome already have many fine scratches that you can't see anyway? I will say it is my preferred method on MIJ kits and hardware. I may go a different route if I was cleaning up a Gretsch round badge or a Ludwig Black Panther or something (or maybe not). Find what works best for you and go with that.
While you're at it (and before you begin the cleaning/polishing process), those MIJ drums greatly benefit from a light hand sanding of the bearing edges. 220 grit works great. Just lightly sand them to smooth them out. You don't want to change the shape or contour of the edge, just smooth out the roughness, so it actually feels good to run your finger along the edge, instead of feeling like your running your finger along a cheese grater instead! It really helps a lot. They are usually pretty rough feeling from the factory.
