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Bought a set of vintage Ludwigs-need some advice/guidance

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I picked up a 13/16/22 set of 1966 or 1967 Ludwigs about a month ago and I've got a couple of questions I'm hoping you guys can help me out with. I haven't played drums since sixth grade and have been looking for a set for the basement so when I ran across these for $500 I figured I would go for it and maybe have some fun putting together the rest of the set. The two toms are in really nice shape and the bass isn't too bad except for one of the seams starting to lift and a different tom mount so here's where the questions start.

The consolette was replaced with a post mount but I don't have the actual post for it and I'm not sure what it should look like. I've seen two of the mounting brackets on Ebay and they were called Ludwig brackets, and I think I've seen one on a couple of WFL bass drums on Ebay but I'm not sure if it is actually a Ludwig tom mount. The hole for the post is 5/8" diameter and the local music stores have never seen a tom mount that fits this (these aren't drum specialty shops). I've also found a correct consolette mount but I'm not sure if I would risk stressing/cracking the bass shell since one of the consolette mounting holes is under the plate of the new tom mount. Would I be better off trying to find a mounting post to fit the newer bracket or should I just go with the consolette? Also, is this a Ludwig mount or something else? There is a link to pics below.

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j109/milocj/Ludwigs/?action=view¤t=DSC01622.jpg

I'm also missing one tension rod from a tom and just the "T" handle from one of the bass rods. I'm also not sure if the hoops are original. They look relatively old and have definitely been repainted but they don't have any inlay strips or the routed channel for the strip. Is it worth trying to hunt down original parts and will they add to the value of the kit? Are the bass tension rod "Ts" available separately or do I need the hole thing and is there any difference between certain years?

What's the best way to fix the lifting seam? It will flatten back out but there are a couple of chips in the lifted edge and I don't know how to clamp it down after gluing.

Is Sky Blue Pearl a somewhat rare color? I haven't seen many of them listed.

Thanks.

Posted on 17 years ago
#1
Posts: 5173 Threads: 188
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Hi.

I can't really say, for sure, what mounting bracket that is. I was going to say that it might be from a Ludwig "Standard" kit....but I'm not sure. You make a good point about the stress of re-installing the railmount. You could try installing an extra-large washer under that area so as to alleviate the potential stress. I'd like to see it before I say more. It gets real complicated with things like this. For me...it's a "player's" kit with a much-decreased collectible value because of the alteration(s).

I don't have a Standard kit to compare measurements....maybe someone else cn chime in on this point.

T-rods, claws, lug screws (be sure to get the correct size for the tom it's for) and lugs are available on Ebay...and they (t-rods and lugs) are ridiculously pricey! Expect to pay a premium price for them if they are in good shape.

The hoops are not original. IF you're lucky enough to find a pair of hoops on Ebay with that color inlay it would be a small miracle. You should expect to pay at least $100.00 for them...probably even more...but, again...I wouldn't bother with that because it's not a collector's kit. If the current hoops are functional, then go with that. You can find new hoops with the routed channel, btw. However, finding a matching inlay strip might be more challenging.

Sky Blue Pearl is a nice color...It's more of a vintage look and so it's a more desirable color...somewhere in-between white Cortex and Oyster Pink Pearl Burger Kin .

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 17 years ago
#2
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Thanks for the info. Can you tell from the pictures if the claws on the bass are original? I know that the t-rods on it aren't.

What about gluing the small lifted section of seam back down on the bass? What's the best glue and the best way to clamp it?

Thanks again.

Posted on 17 years ago
#3
Posts: 5173 Threads: 188
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The claws are definitely NOT original. They appear to be Cannon generic replacements. If you want originals, the, again, Ebay is your source and be prepared to pay as much as $10.00 per t-rod/claw pair!

Gluing a small section like you descxribe should be done with (believe it or not) Krazy Glue! You will need a couple of decent bar clamps -like these: http://www.coastaltool.com/clamps_vises/jorgensen/images/bar_clamp.jpg, a straight piece of wood approx 3/4" thick and a couple inches wide that's cut to the depth/length of the shell, a couple small scrap pieces of thin flexible wood that willl go between the jaws of the clamp and the inside of the shell and some blue painter's tape...

You will obviously have to remove any corresponding lugs, hardware, etc. from the shell.

place the painter's tape along both sides of the entire length of the seam, but don't cover the seam, itself.

tape the flexible scraps of wood with a couple pieces of the painter's tape to the inside of the shell so that coincide with the bottom side of the clamp's jaw -to keep it from marring the inside of the shell -it's a buffer between the clamps and the shell

use the needle-like applicator of the Krazy Glue (I use the gel) to inject some glue into the raised portion of wrap that has lifted. You might need several tubes depending on the amount of seam lift...but your needs seem fairly small

place the strip of wood along the seam and clamp it from both ends of the shell. The wood will disperse the pressure from the clamps along the entire seam, but you can also stick a couple of pieces of painter's tape onto the strip of the wood that coincides with the gap...but don't overdo it or you will make the clamping strip too wobbley.

be sure to place a wide enough strip of tape along the seam so that the wrap surface is protected from the clamped strip of wood.

As you apply pressure from the clamps, the glue will squeeze both into and out of the seam. You need to apply the tape very carefully along the edges of the seam. When the glue is squeezed out, the tape should catch the excess.

The reason why Krazy Glue works for this job is because of how it chemically reacts with the wrap. It kind of "welds" the seam back together. Leave the clamps on overnight to allow the wrap to re-conform.

This is how I did two old Ludwig kits' raised seams and they have held for years.Burger Kin

Take your time and dont't over-tighten the clamps -just enough to close the gap.

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 17 years ago
#4
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I can't find this kind of ludwig this cheap anywhere where did you get yours?

Posted on 17 years ago
#5
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Believe it or not they were at a local Guitar Center. I think they sat there for about 7 months marked at $699 and since I'm not really a drummer I just kept looking at them and wishing I could justify the expense to have them in the basement for jams and to (hopefully) learn how to play them better. I finally walked in there on the last day of the month figuring it was probably the last day for commissions and asked them for their best price. When the manager told me they couldn't go any less than $500 I bit.

They sound good to me, the set doesn't take up a lot of space, and hopefully they aren't going to go down in value at all, at least not much.

Posted on 17 years ago
#6
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Quoted post

Believe it or not they were at a local Guitar Center. I think they sat there for about 7 months marked at $699 and since I'm not really a drummer I just kept looking at them and wishing I could justify the expense to have them in the basement for jams and to (hopefully) learn how to play them better. I finally walked in there on the last day of the month figuring it was probably the last day for commissions and asked them for their best price. When the manager told me they couldn't go any less than $500 I bit.They sound good to me, the set doesn't take up a lot of space, and hopefully they aren't going to go down in value at all, at least not much.

If your ever looking to sell. Did they have any other similar kits, any ones that may have costed more?

Posted on 17 years ago
#7
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