I used the heatlock on a floor tom that had a pretty big area of woodfiller on it and didn't have any problems. I haven't noticed any lifting in that area either. I was extremely impressed with the heatlock glue and highly suggest it.

I recommend using 3M 90.

Spray both substrates and allow it to get dryish tacky then carefully bring together both parts. You have to align spot on because you only get one chance to stick. Peeling apart is a bit of a nighmare...use paint thinner for pull aparts.

This spray adhesive will bond to the plastic wood filler. But be careful on the meeting of the two parts, if you have to remove the newly applied veneer you might pull apart the patched work.

Use in a well ventilated space for safety reasons, cough cough!!

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=3M%E2%84%A2+Hi-Strength+90+Spray+Adhesive&bav=on.1,or.&noj=1&safe=active&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1353882716865042162&sa=X&ei=XpdmTemrKcOclget_7j_AQ&ved=0CEEQ8wIwBA#

Best of luck,

Ollie

Sweet! Exactly the answer I was hoping for. Thanks! Did you use paper backed or raw? also, was there an issue bending the veneer around the shell AFTER the heat locked had dried, or is it pretty pliable? Did you use an oversize piece then trim above the bearing edges, or did you cut to fit first? Sorry about all the questions!

I used paper backed, though I really cant say that there is a benefit to it, there were areas that I sanded between 2 bookmatched pieces that actually opened up the seem a bit more than I'd like. If I were to do it again, I would use raw veneer in 1 sheet rather than a bunch of book matched pieces put together with a paper backing. The veneer I used was 10mil and I had no problems what so ever bending it around the shell, the glue didn't have any effect on its pliability, if anything it made it more pliable and I had to use something to hold it down so it didn't roll up on itself while it was drying. I cut the veneer oversized width and length wise about an inch. The heatlock can cause the veneer to shrink up just a tad, so its best to wrap first then cut your seem by cutting both overlaping pieces at once, otherwise you could end up with a small gap. Once it was all dry I trimmed the excess around the bearing edge with a razor blade, just make sure you have a sharp NEW blade. I used a slightly undersized drill bit to drill out the hardware holes and then used a little reamer/file tool to clean the holes up.

great! thanks for all the tips, i think i have a good gameplan now.. now as soon as i get my tax refund back, ill order all the hardware and veneer and make it happen!

I suggest using raw as well. I have done interiors on curly maple, and be certain to use the Heatlock, it is easiest. Make sure you wrap it around with some type of belt or straps to securely glue the veneer down or you will have bubbles, and they look like $hit if you do. So, carefully tie down the veneer after you have it in place. Good Luck with it, let's have look when you are done.

so, iron the veneer on FIRST, then wrap straps on after? Or are you saying to use the straps to hold the veneer down BEFORE i start ironing? thanks!

Follow the instructions at www.joewoodworker.com it seems to be the best site for novice veneer working. It is a great site for info, whether you have a vac system or not.

I've read through joewoodworker, but I have a final question: there was a crack in the shell, and now where the crack was, there is a slight bulge. will the veneer be able to be applied over the bulge? i already ordered the veneer, so i hope so! i was thinking maybe i could moisten the veneer and wrap it around the shell and tighten some straps around it to hopefully form it to the shell before gluing it.. thoughts? thankyou so much for the responses so far everyone!