I usually just polish the lugs with Flitz or other chrome/metal cleaner. As far as the tension rods go I have heard guys say do not do anything to lube them up because that may cause it to slide or detune. I think it's a good thought actually. I clean them real well but I don't live them up at all. I'm sure there are different theories. I would just use some Novus on your wrap. Also while you have those springs and inserts out you might as well wrap this springs before you put them back in to avoid any rattling. Especially if you might want to record with this kit down the road. Good luck and have fun! Take before and after pics.

Curtis

Thanks Curtis! I've never lubed the rods in the past for the reasons you mentioned above. My girlfriend recommended I do it and she's a percussion performance and music education major, so obviously there's a good reason for it but I'm drawing a blank!

I've got felt on the shopping list and I'll check out the Novus stuff. I'll be sure to post pictures, too. Even if it's just a cleaning it's better than not looking at drums!

Absolutely NO STEEL WOOL. Eva.

Liquid car wax exterior, Beeswax interior.

Gun oil for lubricant.

A green pad scrubby for threads. Most T-rods are chromed too, don`t start them rusting by scratching or chipping them with steel anything.

My after cleaning products.

You can use a tap nut to put on and remove to clean up flattened or rounded threads.

Would you use something else to clean out the threads on the lug insert? Or do you think it's probably nothing to worry about once you re-lube?

I throw all metal parts in CLR overnight; rinse well, dry and wax with one grand blitz wax. No steel wool and no lube. You can use soap if you want but oil and grease always migrate to the wood plies and that's not good.

Always wrap the springs in the lugs with felt.

Chase rusty tension rod nuts with a tap; rods with a die. (Although CLR removes all the rust with a soft toothbrush)

Don't screw up the lug casing screws that hold it to the shell! Some (fibes for example) are notorious for stripping. Rogers bread and butter lugs too... "Know thy enemy."

Shells it depends. I have a large 12" buffing wheel from my guitar making days and I used that with compound to restore the red ripple wrap on my D-20 kit. Always wax with the blitz wax after cleaning and/or buffing.

Lacquer shells I might do by hand with other products like you would use to perfect auto paint. A bit more involved depending on condition, finish type and paint thickness. You can really screw up a lacquer finish easily if you are not careful...

Rubbing alcohol is (generally) safe for removing most gunk from wraps without melting them. Always test under a lug before you ruin a wrap!

Looks like most points covered. Inside of the lug casings I clean with a small brush. Tension rod inserts, a tapered brass wire 22 cal. barrel cleaner works well. Die for stripped tension rods. Tap for really bad lug attachment mounts.

Have been using thin foam of late in newer lugs instead of felt. Thinking being foam won't hold any mositure. Felt in the vintage drums cause they never leave the house.

Hope it goes well !

Creighton

The issue I have with foam is that many types break down with age and make a mess. Felt seems to last forever.

Thanks for all the tips, guys. Do y'all do anything to seal the inside of the lug casing? If you seal/wax the outside to prevent the chrome pitting, do you need to prevent the unfinished interior from rusting or deteriorating? I figure you can't be too careful... is it jut unpolished chrome or is it unplated nickel?

Also, my girlfriend asked me to use this emoji to see if it shows up: 🙈