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Before/After: Patching holes in wrap

Posts: 728 Threads: 92
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Hey guys,

Here's another update on my '59-60 Slingerland bass drum restoration.

Thanks to Mcjnic , I've got some "new" old WMP to fill holes (that ive plugged with dowels)in the wrap on my Slingy. Its slow going, but Im getting there and Im really happy with the results :). Had I known I was going to do this from the beginning, I would have first cut out the "new" old WMP and attached it to the dowels before inserting the dowels in the shell, so that the wrap on the dowel and wrap on the shell could be flush. Such is life. There is a slight difference in the height of the patched wrap and original wrap...oh well. The drum still looks a heck of a lot better than when I got it :).

First pic: before wrap patch.

Second pic: wrap patched !!

James

“It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent; it is the one most adaptable to change.” - Charles Darwin
Posted on 14 years ago
#1
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Great job James!


Recent Purchases
-1961 SBP Pioneer Snare Drum
-1962 SBP Super Classic w/ Matching COB Supra

Working On
-1963 Red Sparkle Hollywood w/ matching Super Classic Snare

Recently Completed
-1964 WMP Super Classic
Posted on 14 years ago
#2
Posts: 728 Threads: 92
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Thanks drumbum. Can't wait to finish up this project and start building a kit around this bass drum!

“It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent; it is the one most adaptable to change.” - Charles Darwin
Posted on 14 years ago
#3
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Nice job! Did you use contact cement or a diifferent glue to attach the wrap to the dowel? Thanks for the tip about attaching it before inserting it!

Posted on 14 years ago
#4
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Attaching the wrap to the end of the dowell is a excellent idea! Seems like you could drill the hole out to make the dowel fit real snug, then insert the dowel into the hole and shape the end of the dowel to the curve of the shell. Remove the dowel, glue a slightly larger piece of the wrap on the end of the dowel, file the edges of the wrap to be flush with the edge of the dowel, test fit it again, then glue the dowell into the hole. When it dries, then sand the inside of the dowel flush with the shell. I know you have been working on this and hindsight is 20-20, but is it possable to redo it?

From james

Hey guys,Here's another update on my '59-60 Slingerland bass drum restoration.Thanks to Mcjnic , I've got some "new" old WMP to fill holes (that ive plugged with dowels)in the wrap on my Slingy. Its slow going, but Im getting there and Im really happy with the results :). Had I known I was going to do this from the beginning, I would have first cut out the "new" old WMP and attached it to the dowels before inserting the dowels in the shell, so that the wrap on the dowel and wrap on the shell could be flush. Such is life. There is a slight difference in the height of the patched wrap and original wrap...oh well. The drum still looks a heck of a lot better than when I got it :).First pic: before wrap patch.Second pic: wrap patched !!James

1960's SONOR 12-16-20-14 blue slate pearl
1968 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14Sky blue P
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14BlueVistalite
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-(14 impostor)BlackPanther "SOLD"
1964 Ludwig Oyster Black Pearl 22-12-13-16-14Supra "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14 Citrus Mod "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG Sexto-Plus 8-1 0-12-13-14-15-16-20-20-14 Silver Sparkle
60's Majestic Delux 12-13-16-22-14 red pearl
2009 Homemade Kids 8-10-13-16-12 Orange Sparkle
24 kits, 80 Snares, 65 Cymbals
Don't tell my wife!
Posted on 14 years ago
#5
Posts: 728 Threads: 92
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Hi guys -

To answer Bobby's question - I used DAP contact cement and it worked great. Just applied it to the wrap and dowel, let them dry for about 25 minutes and then stuck them together. No problem!

Poppi - that definitely would have been the way to go and if I ever have to fill holes and patch wrap again, that is the method I would use: cut the dowel, shape it to fit snug, then attach the wrap to it, and finally plug the hole! At this point, I am happy with how the drum turned out (even though it is not as perfect as it could be) and probably wont be removing the dowels. Ah well, lesson learned for next time :). Weren't you thinking of filling some holes too? If so, how did it go?

James

“It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent; it is the one most adaptable to change.” - Charles Darwin
Posted on 14 years ago
#6
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Yes I am and now i have a lot better idea on how to do it, thanks to you.

From james

Hi guys - To answer Bobby's question - I used DAP contact cement and it worked great. Just applied it to the wrap and dowel, let them dry for about 25 minutes and then stuck them together. No problem!Poppi - that definitely would have been the way to go and if I ever have to fill holes and patch wrap again, that is the method I would use: cut the dowel, shape it to fit snug, then attach the wrap to it, and finally plug the hole! At this point, I am happy with how the drum turned out (even though it is not as perfect as it could be) and probably wont be removing the dowels. Ah well, lesson learned for next time :). Weren't you thinking of filling some holes too? If so, how did it go?James

1960's SONOR 12-16-20-14 blue slate pearl
1968 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14Sky blue P
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14BlueVistalite
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-(14 impostor)BlackPanther "SOLD"
1964 Ludwig Oyster Black Pearl 22-12-13-16-14Supra "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14 Citrus Mod "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG Sexto-Plus 8-1 0-12-13-14-15-16-20-20-14 Silver Sparkle
60's Majestic Delux 12-13-16-22-14 red pearl
2009 Homemade Kids 8-10-13-16-12 Orange Sparkle
24 kits, 80 Snares, 65 Cymbals
Don't tell my wife!
Posted on 14 years ago
#7
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