So then I used an old glue I had sitting around to fill the gaps and cracks in the wood, no clamps. This glue dries extremely hard and fills gaps much better than Titebond, Elmers, or any cyanoacrylate glue.

Luckily I have a perfectly flat surface to do my sanding on, a very large, very old tablesaw. Clamped my used 36" sanding belt to it and got a perfectly flat edge on the drum.

Off to the router table, this table was almost too small for my 22" kick, but perfect for this 15" shell. I used two different bits with bearings that I happened to have for that "custom" edge.

Can you tell I love old things? Drums, tools, I also ride a vintage peugeot bicycle. Seems like everything was better back in the 60's.

Amazing how much better it sounds now. When I first got it and played it, I understood why he got rid of it so cheap. That and a tension rod was broke off inside a lug, I think he got some replacements that were much too long.

Anyways, it goes perfectly with my cheap Slingerland sparkle kit!

Thanks for reading, your replies are greatly appreciated.

-Loran

Hey!! Thanks for the progress photos and the narative...good job. I like the sanding belt on the saw table to get a flat edge.

how much do you estimate that you have lost in depth by cutting the new edges? did you cut them with the wrap on?

The depth is very close to the same, I use the glue to build up the low spots so I don't sand a whole lot of wood away. I do cut the edges with the wrap on, that only cause a problem at the seam where I can clean them up by hand.

What contour did you put on this one? Is it a double 45?

if you look at the picture of the router bits in the previous post, you should be able to make out the profiles. For the outside it is a steep (~30 degrees) angle, and the inside is a half-round that closely matched the original curve.