I agree with others on this being a tough question. It's not that it can't be answered, it's just that there are a multitude of answers. It's like asking "Is antique furniture better than modern furniture?". Talk to 10 different people, and you'll get 10 different answers and 10 different opinions.

As far as your specific question about sound and quality between vintage and modern, that too is difficult to answer. Technology and building methods have improved greatly over time in drum making, but there are plenty of vintage drums that have outstanding build quality, and there are plenty of brand new drums that have cheap parts and construction.

I agree that it's important to find that sound that you like, and try as many different kits as possible, including different sizes, configurations etc. See what you like and you're comfortable with. Don't get caught up in any "hype", be they new or vintage. If you like them and they feel and sound good to you, then they are the best drums in the world for you at that moment. I will offer some general guidelines for your consideration when trying out different kits:

1. Remember that the type of wood used in making drums actually has a small effect on the sound of the drums overall. 90+% of the sound of the drum comes from head selection and tuning. Some different woods accentuate or diminish certain sound qualities (such as birch tends to accentuate mid range frequencies and luan/phillipine mahogany (interchangeable terms) tends to accentuate lower end frequencies), but those are subtle, and much less noticeable than tuning and head selection. Some drummers may not admit to this, but let's say you had 4 drums that were all the exact same size, with the exact same single ply heads and were tuned exactly the same. One was maple, one was birch, one was poplar and one was luan, in a normal room with no microphones, I think all of us would be hard pressed to find any immediately noticeable differences between the drums. However if, you took one of those drums, and swapped out the batter head with a pre-muffled double ply head and left the rest of the drums the same, all of us would easily be able to pick out the one that had it's head changed. So while there are subtle differences in the sound of woods, it pales in comparison to the type of head and how it's tuned.

2. Keeping Point #1 in mind, shell construction quality is also important, and is especially something to check on used drums. You're not going to have much of a problem on new drums, but on used drums, check to make the sure the shell is in good shape structurally. This means no chunks out of the bearing edge, no deep scratches or unnecessary holes from previous tom mounts etc. Is the shell round and true? Some older drums, if not properly cared for, can actually warp or become "egg shaped", thereby making it impossible to fit a head on, let alone tune. Also, check the finish, either wrap or lacquer. While only cosmetic, you want your drums to look great, so check that there are no heavy scratches, lifting of the seam of the wrap, tearing of the wrap, or, especially on older drums, any fading or yellowing of the wrap from UV Sunlight, cigarette smoke etc.

3. Your dollar always go further with used over new. Something to keep in mind. Refer to point # 2 above if you're buying used. You can check the "For Sale" section on this forum and find several used kits. Anyone selling here would be happy to answer any questions and provide plenty of pictures etc. (**Shameless self promotion begin)-- In fact, I'll be listing several kits here in the next week or so, and I would be happy to help you (Shameless self promotion end**). Seriously though, lots of great, knowledgeable and helpful sellers on here. Even if you don't buy from us, we'll be here to help you.

4. Here is general Pro/Con list of new vs. used. I'm sure there are things that I didn't think of and/or that will apply to your specific criteria, but here is a general guide:

NEW DRUMS:

PROS:

-Clean, no damage or abuse (at least there shouldn't be).

-Usually backed by a warranty

-Have many choices of configurations, finishes, sizes etc.

CONS:

-Dollar doesn't go as far.

-Larger difference between initial cost and resale value (if you plan on upgrading/trading down the line)

-No "mojo/vibe" factor.

USED/VINTAGE DRUMS:

PROS:

-"Vibe/Mojo" that only a older kit can provide

-You get more for your money

-Can have a finish/wrap not found on modern drums

-Older wood can mellow out tones slightly and be a little more versatile

-Much smaller difference between original purchase price and resale value. In the case of vintage, they will typically hold steady or increase vs. original purchase price

CONS:

-Need to be "vetted" thoroughly for any damage or construction issues

-Require more time & elbow grease to clean, polish and "fix up" (although most of us here would agree, that's part of the fun!)

-Typically no warranty and are sold "As Is"

-Parts/Accessories can be expensive and/or hard to find

Enjoy your hunt! This forum is a great place. I've learned so much from everyone here and I hope you'll learn and have as much fun interacting on this forum as I have had and will continue to have.

V

One of the things about wood is that it changes it`s acoustic properties over time as more and more pulp (filler) is aged out of the wood. With more pulp aged out, the wood has more surface area to vibrate and that will most definitely change the sound from when they were new. Refinishing the interior will change the sound of vintage aged drums. Products like Beeswax that don`t fill in area`s, don`t make as much change. putting stain or paint or poly., over the interior will fill in the missing pulp and give the wood again less surface area to vibrate.

I`ll stop there because ,yes, there is a difference.

I stop there because companies like SONOR are using aged wood from deconstructed homes, barns, furniture, to get a real aged wood that is authentic as the vintage aged drums they are reproducing.

Wood is sought after now, it`s not as plentiful as it once was. Old wood is available if you know where to look. Like logs that have been at the bottom of a swap, pond, or lake from the days of logging when they sank. Barns and historic homes are also another good source of old aged woods.

These are some of the reasons you can buy a supercar for the price of a SONOR SQ-2 order.

I have both new and vintage drums...and I really like the sound I get from all of them. Heads and tuning make a substantial difference. Of course the kind of wood and craftsmanship matters as well. I have a modern Ludwig kit with birch shell and the toms sing and have great projection. On the flip side, I have a couple 60's MIJ kits that sound great even though they were the low end drums of the time. If I had to choose between a really cheap modern set versus a cheap vintage set, I would go with vintage every time. If you decide to go with a modern kit, you really can't go wrong with any of the mid-range and up sets.

Hello,

New drums (especially the rack toms) have another great advantage which wasn't mentioned here before - but should be said:

the tom holder system nowadays (called 'rim') sound-wise separates the drum shell totally from the tom holding unit/ tom bracket. Result: the sound of the rack toms is 'singing' (= lots of sustain).

If you buy any drum kit from the 60's up to early 70's, the tom holder will make a tight connection to the drum shell of the rack toms which oppresses the free swinging of the drum shell. Result: the sound is more muted.

Cheers, Ralf

Agree 110%. My 70's Premier B303 three ply African Mahogany drums are the best I've ever owned, over my DW's, Luddies, etc etc. This is just my opinion, as it is subjective.

I don't necessarily agree with the notion that beg-level-mid level kits of today are built better then vintage "professional" ones. I'll point again to my B303 kit, the build quality on that kit is outstanding, and 43 years later it still holds up, after three owners, countless tours, shows, load ins, smoke filled bars, in and out of cases, moved with NO cases, storage in various temperatures, etc. Let's see a Chinese made Ludwig kit in 43 years, then we'll know.

Adrianne224,

Like yourself, I am a noob drummer. I bought my first kit just 4 years ago. I think all of the responses to your question have been filled with really good advise. I wish I had found this forum earlier, and asked your question myself.

Two things I would add/emphasize are...

#1

Amazing deals on used drum gear can still be found on CL, Letgo, etc. but you must be diligent, and a little lucky...the "stupid good" deals don't last long. Watch for postings that are selling complete kits; hardware, cymbals, cowbells, sticks...the whole mess. Often they will be motivated sellers...parents cleaning out the basement, someone moving to an apartment, or someone who has, for some reason or another, given up the hobby completely. Don't worry if it is not the kit of your dreams, research the value/quality of all the parts offered. It might be that only one cymbal and one piece of hardware like maybe the kick pedal are "pro" quality gear, and worth keeping long-term. Like others have said; if you are willing to do a little work cleaning things up and relisting the parts of the kit that are not to your liking, you can often end up keeping a few of the best parts for yourself at little or no cost. I started 4 years ago with Sonor Force kit (a lucky find at $100... complete with hardware and cymbals) and have played the "paperclip game" up to a kit that is waaaaaaay beyond what my drumming skills and experience deserves. Sure, I have injected money in to the process along the way, so it's not a true "paperclip trade-up" thing, but for a total of less than $1k I have ended up with a true dream kit...it's a three piece, hand made, steam bent, solid shell kit 18-10-13 (all made from one plank of ridiculously beautiful sycamore wood), a solid maple steam bent snare made by the same craftsman (Ian Witt of Barberton Ohio), with pro level hardware, a full compliment of Paiste Signature cymbals, and padded cases for all of it to boot.

#2

Beware of the strategy described in point #1...it can lead to a basement filled with misfit janky drum parts, and possibly carpel tunnel syndrome. If/when that happens... give the drum misfit stuff to charity and stretch your hands and wrists often!

Good luck,

AL

I couldn't agree more~! A lot of us older guys started with cheap kits we beat to pieces then moved up. For me that was a new set of '67 Ludwig Hollywoods that I gigged 10 years through school with. They still look and sound as good or better than my 3 newer kits. BUT I have no idea as to Ludwig's quality today. But companies like Pearl, Tama,Yamaha etc. have proven track records for building great quality kits. I agree mid level kits new or used are the best buy, sound great and typically get money out of when moving up... OR use that money for great cymbals and a higher end snare if needed. Three things: First get with drummers, youtube and learn set up and how to tune drum heads. Second be careful with some older sets that have very high (deep) toms as shallower is best IMO for a host of reasons. Third hauling a huge kit is no fun from gig to gig. Playing at home fine, but on the load out lean & light is usually preferred. Good Luck~!

I think vintage drums are better!!

Cheers

It's hard to go wrong with any Tama kit, especially the Starclassics. Tama quality is excellent. I'd love a late 70s Imperialstar kit with a 24" kick.

Anyway, to answer Adreienne's question:

In my opinion, modern drum quality is light years better than vintage drum quality, generally speaking, primarily because of brands like Tama, Pearl and Yamaha. I play vintage drums with newer hardware.

I prefer the sound of vintage drums with American music like blues, rock and country. Vintage drums usually sound more real or authentic, if that makes any sense. I don't like the sound of drums that are too perfect, like a drum machine.

I play an early 70s kit and a late 70s kit regularly. I believe that modern, US-made Ludwig kits are high quality, great sounding drums- and they're a good value too. Either way, if a kit looks and sounds good to you it's usually a good kit to play.