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Anyone here ever polish Wraps with a DA Machine?

Posts: 163 Threads: 24
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-UltrForgive me of this topic has been gone through back in time here.

I understand Shells will have to be fully stripped.

If there are those that have done this themselves, what other precautions have you possibly taken, or other tips as to not cause any Polisher, or Chemical induced harm? I'd assume Masking in some if not all instances would be beneficial, and as a a pro auto detailer would tell you, is "keep it clean"!

I surely would not want to rip badges off any vintage drum, so there's that of course, and would assume these items are something you don't want to damage in any way with a polisher-etc.

I'd even guess some have even taken Rotary Polishers, but can gather well this is where one can get into trouble real fast with mucho heat generated and irreparably damage a wrap.

As with Hand Polishing, have you found modern day high quality Auto Polishes to be acceptable? Or, are there other products better suited for vintage wraps and machine polishing.

I am aware of Novus Polishes, have used them for many years on a various things. Not sure how well products like Novus #2 and #3 will work-react with a Machine though? (Maybe Novus themselves can answer such?)

I know many high quality Auto Polishes (Menzerna-etc) today have different design-type formulations, with some the polishing Formulations, large particles-clusters of abrasive media break down, and like for Auto Paint they will correct,polish, remove swirling quickly, yet also then act then as ultra fine Last Step Polish.

As for Tools-Products, I think I have those bases covered with 2 specific DA Machines I could use, Backing Plates that can accept anywhere from 2"-6" and countless Pads of the various types.

I'd gather one rule of thumb, is of course do no harm, and that one should start out with Mild Polishes on a per candidate basis, and then go from there.

Posted on 1 year ago
#1
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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I have a large diameter buffing wheel (roughly 12") that runs on an old washing machine motor. I made it to polish guitar bodies when I was making them.

The compound comes in solid bar form- you "load" the wheel as it's spinning and then bring the work up to the wheel.

I used this to restore my D-20 kit and it worked fantastic. Yes, you can melt a wrap if you're not careful but test on a scrap shell until you get a technique down. I had a lot of prior practice on lacquered guitar bodies so it was pretty easy to do for me.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 1 year ago
#2
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I have no clue as to what a "DA" machine is! Please enlighten us!

-Mark

Posted on 1 year ago
#3
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DA is 'dual action' buffer- not only does it rotate in a circular pattern but also moves 'side to side' making the buffing action more controlled. The Orbital buffer only goes in a circular pattern and can 'catch' edges or lips- thus making it harder to control. I have used both on drums but have experience buffing vehicles as I was a painter. Yes a DA is better due to the control- but if you're careful an orbital will make short work of polishing wraps. As stated you must use care and NOT pressure as you can 'burn' the wrap just like paint on a car- once the wrap is 'burnt'- melted it is pretty much messed up! The proper compound makes it a quick job (with all hadrware removed!)

Posted on 1 year ago
#4
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A DA with a proper buffing bonnet should work well, but be careful and start with a finer polish to start until you know how the wrap reacts to the polish being applies with a power tool. You don't want to burn through one of the layers that many types of wrap are made from, such as sparkles. Also keep in mind that certain old wraps are very flammable so you don't want to get it too hot. When it goes off, it is very quick and violent. It would be a good ideal to do it outdoors and have a bucket of water with a towel ready to put it out if it catches fire.

Posted on 1 year ago
#5
Posts: 350 Threads: 33
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The only time I have done this was polishing my Cleveland era, Blue Glass Glitter Rogers kit.

I polished by hand using a micro-fiber pad with Canuba-based auto paste wax, then went over it with a microfiber towel. It looks stunning.

1974-75 Rogers Starlighter IV New England White 13/16/22 (w/Dyna)
1964-67 Rogers Blue Glass Glitter 12/14/16/20
early Oaklawn Camco Blue Moire 12/14/20
1926 Super Ludwig 5x14
1960-ish Ludwig COB 5x14 Super Sensitive
1960-ish Ludwig COB 6.5x14 Super Sensitive
1970 Ludwig COB Cut-Badge 5x14 Supra Phonic

Looking for a Camco Aristocrat SD in Blue Moire!!
Posted on 1 year ago
#6
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Maybe you're over thinking this. I spray Novus on and hand polish with a clean cloth. Simple. The shells look great after.

'23 DW Collector's, Black Galaxy: 13/16/18/22/14 sn.
'01 DW Collector's, Oyster White: 8/10/12/14/16/22.
'24 DW Performance, Gold Sparkle, 12/14/20.
'59-ish Slingerland Pink Sparkle, 13/16/22.

'72 Slingerland Red Tiger Pearl: 12/13/16/16/22.
'70ish Slingerland Merlot Sparkle rewrap: 13/16/24.

'68ish Slingerland rewrap: 13/16/22.

'69 Rogers Holiday, Red Onyx: 13/16/24
'67 Ludwig Burgundy Sparkle: 12/13/16/22.
'70-ish Ludwig Std, Burgundy Oyster: 13/16/22.
'69-ish MIJ Drum Mate: Peacock Pearl: 13/16/22.
'67-ish MIJ Crown, Red Sparkle, 12/13/16/22.

'67-ish,. MIJ Drum Mate, Blue Oyster, 12/13/16/22.

 

 

Posted on 1 year ago
#7
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I use Flex cordless DA buffers 3" an 5" and Meguires 110, 210 compounds and no. 6 cleaner wax. Sometimes I even wet sand the wraps. Never have had any problems using these methods except I never wet sand orange peeled wrap surfaces like on some vintage Gretsch and Rogers finishes. PM for more details if you'd like. I came from the motorcycle and auto detail arena.

Posted on 1 year ago
#8
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From JDragon

DA is 'dual action' buffer- not only does it rotate in a circular pattern but also moves 'side to side' making the buffing action more controlled. The Orbital buffer only goes in a circular pattern and can 'catch' edges or lips- thus making it harder to control. I have used both on drums but have experience buffing vehicles as I was a painter. Yes a DA is better due to the control- but if you're careful an orbital will make short work of polishing wraps. As stated you must use care and NOT pressure as you can 'burn' the wrap just like paint on a car- once the wrap is 'burnt'- melted it is pretty much messed up! The proper compound makes it a quick job (with all hadrware removed!)

Hi JDragon! Thanks for educating us on what a DA is. Much appreciated!

-Mark

Posted on 1 year ago
#9
Posts: 163 Threads: 24
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Hello folks,

It's great to see my thread has garnered some interest and input.

Polishing objects has always been of high interest to me, and I am aware of buffing wheels, and items like the blocks of specific polishing abrasives used, even little tools, like a simple Dremel Tool, Felt Wheels and ***eler's Rouge for polishing small fine metals, rings, etc.

Or, like the folks at Colt under the Blue Dome, polishing up those Pythons back in the day.

I was thinking though, the Dual Action Polisher holds some good potential, because less heat is generated, The combinations of Pads and Polishes-Abrasives-Glazes are almost endless.

Like I previously mention though, and the special care, and precautions of harming certain items cannot be stressed enough. Like destroying a perfectly unmolested Drum Badge.

I imagine as I finish this post, all has to be on an individual basis, does a Drum Shell require such? Can you help improve and enhance an appearance and value-worth with some labor and products? The possible risks, and perhaps also harm caused are all factors.

Sometimes things "seem easy". Like you'll simply remove all the Lugs-etc, and screws are snapping off, or some other bad issue occurring? And that's not good.

In the vintage realm, one example would be taking a sound and halfway decent looking '57 Gold Top Gibson Les Paul, refinishing it, and killing 1/2 its actual value.

Posted on 1 year ago
#10
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