I have a large diameter buffing wheel (roughly 12") that runs on an old washing machine motor. I made it to polish guitar bodies when I was making them.

The compound comes in solid bar form- you "load" the wheel as it's spinning and then bring the work up to the wheel.

I used this to restore my D-20 kit and it worked fantastic. Yes, you can melt a wrap if you're not careful but test on a scrap shell until you get a technique down. I had a lot of prior practice on lacquered guitar bodies so it was pretty easy to do for me.

I have no clue as to what a "DA" machine is! Please enlighten us!

-Mark

DA is 'dual action' buffer- not only does it rotate in a circular pattern but also moves 'side to side' making the buffing action more controlled. The Orbital buffer only goes in a circular pattern and can 'catch' edges or lips- thus making it harder to control. I have used both on drums but have experience buffing vehicles as I was a painter. Yes a DA is better due to the control- but if you're careful an orbital will make short work of polishing wraps. As stated you must use care and NOT pressure as you can 'burn' the wrap just like paint on a car- once the wrap is 'burnt'- melted it is pretty much messed up! The proper compound makes it a quick job (with all hadrware removed!)

A DA with a proper buffing bonnet should work well, but be careful and start with a finer polish to start until you know how the wrap reacts to the polish being applies with a power tool. You don't want to burn through one of the layers that many types of wrap are made from, such as sparkles. Also keep in mind that certain old wraps are very flammable so you don't want to get it too hot. When it goes off, it is very quick and violent. It would be a good ideal to do it outdoors and have a bucket of water with a towel ready to put it out if it catches fire.

The only time I have done this was polishing my Cleveland era, Blue Glass Glitter Rogers kit.

I polished by hand using a micro-fiber pad with Canuba-based auto paste wax, then went over it with a microfiber towel. It looks stunning.

Maybe you're over thinking this. I spray Novus on and hand polish with a clean cloth. Simple. The shells look great after.

I use Flex cordless DA buffers 3" an 5" and Meguires 110, 210 compounds and no. 6 cleaner wax. Sometimes I even wet sand the wraps. Never have had any problems using these methods except I never wet sand orange peeled wrap surfaces like on some vintage Gretsch and Rogers finishes. PM for more details if you'd like. I came from the motorcycle and auto detail arena.

Hi JDragon! Thanks for educating us on what a DA is. Much appreciated!

-Mark

Hello folks,

It's great to see my thread has garnered some interest and input.

Polishing objects has always been of high interest to me, and I am aware of buffing wheels, and items like the blocks of specific polishing abrasives used, even little tools, like a simple Dremel Tool, Felt Wheels and ***eler's Rouge for polishing small fine metals, rings, etc.

Or, like the folks at Colt under the Blue Dome, polishing up those Pythons back in the day.

I was thinking though, the Dual Action Polisher holds some good potential, because less heat is generated, The combinations of Pads and Polishes-Abrasives-Glazes are almost endless.

Like I previously mention though, and the special care, and precautions of harming certain items cannot be stressed enough. Like destroying a perfectly unmolested Drum Badge.

I imagine as I finish this post, all has to be on an individual basis, does a Drum Shell require such? Can you help improve and enhance an appearance and value-worth with some labor and products? The possible risks, and perhaps also harm caused are all factors.

Sometimes things "seem easy". Like you'll simply remove all the Lugs-etc, and screws are snapping off, or some other bad issue occurring? And that's not good.

In the vintage realm, one example would be taking a sound and halfway decent looking '57 Gold Top Gibson Les Paul, refinishing it, and killing 1/2 its actual value.