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Amati bop kit project

Posts: 1040 Threads: 106
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Okay, the title may sound somewhat bombastic, but it's not that great.

Long story short, I needed some smaller kick drum to drag around - nothing of big quality or price. So naturally, I went for Amati. I'm not sure if they ever produced kick drums of this size, but they sure made floor toms. So I got myself one typically abused Amati from 70s-80s. Bottom hardware and muffler gone, wrap stripped off and whole thing painted black. Whatever. I wanted to make this thing as cheap as possible, because I planned to transport it around in rough conditions, so me and my dad just bent two of the legs and moved the third bracket to between them and we replaced the rubber end by a piece of pertinax shaped as a bass drum hoop fragment, so I could attach the pedal. Of course I could buy 18" bass drum hoop and claws, but that would likely cost more than the shell did...

It works quite nice and neat, with no further investments, except for the drum head. But I was thinking about getting a 14"x14" tom-tom (sadly, they didn't make them as floor toms, as far as I know) and some 3ply 12" and making a bop-sized kit out of all of it. If I'm going to re-paint it I might also clean up the shell and re-cut the edges in the process. And this is the moment when I seek you advice;

-look at the edges. They are sure ugly and shoddy made, however, should I bother and re-cut them?

-if so, how? Should I re-cut them completely to 30° or should I round the outer side, wich SHOULD be round, but commies just made it sloppy, or should I just sandpaper it?

-what head should I use? I'm talking about bop sizes, but I don't really intend to play bop on it. I play more of rock and ska and I'm looking for that kinda smacky "modern" sound.

Thank you in advance for any advices or opinins.

Photos are here... ImageShack changed a bit and now I don't know how to put them directly into my post.

http://img826.imageshack.us/f/shell1r.jpg/

http://img826.imageshack.us/f/edge1g.jpg/

http://img827.imageshack.us/f/shell2.jpg/

Sysl krysu nenahradi!

-196?-72 6ply White Oyster Amati
-1960s 3ply Red Sparkle Amati
- Zildjian, Paiste, Zyn, Istanbul

http://bandzone.cz/blueswan
Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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I think either way will work. Cutting the bearing edges to 30 degrees is good to do if you have a router and bit or know someone and then round over the outer edge. Just sanding will also do the trick and is probably the cheapest way to go. Johnnistix has considerable experience in this area and hopefully he will jump in soon with specifics.

Posted on 13 years ago
#2
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Come on...you know I will. OK, first off, look at the edge in a dim or dark room, on a table that you know is reasonably flat and level...look for any significant un-eveness. If there is only a mm or less, don't worry as you will likely sand it out. Mark it in pencil if you need to know where the high and low spots are. Use a flashlight inside the shell to see the uneven areas.

Start with a 60-80 grit. On this, I would go for the 60, then 80, then 150, then 220. Don't worry about getting it perfect, this is a bass, not a snare. You want consistent, not perfection. On this shell, it is like a Kent, looks like 2-3 ply with no re-rings, so just go for a good, even edge all the way around. That is the best you can do for this. Allow your hands to guide you, gently but firmly work your way around the shell. count your strokes, 1, 2, 3, 4, turn, and so on. The count is the number of strokes you will make, and it goes very fast, so in about 3 minutes, you should go around twice at least.

Any other needs, go to my youtube page.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 13 years ago
#3
Posts: 1040 Threads: 106
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Thank you for your advices!

I'll keep you posted how it goes.

Sysl krysu nenahradi!

-196?-72 6ply White Oyster Amati
-1960s 3ply Red Sparkle Amati
- Zildjian, Paiste, Zyn, Istanbul

http://bandzone.cz/blueswan
Posted on 13 years ago
#4
Posts: 584 Threads: 189
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Hy Gilnar,I think you are right,Amati did not made 14" floor,but if you could find older Tacton ,they hed 14"floor and it was with re rings.I remember,they were dark red painted inside,and wrap was easy to take off,glued only on few spots for the shell

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Posted on 13 years ago
#5
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Dule,

that kit is bad ass looking!

Did they sound any good?

I would love to have that set!

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 13 years ago
#6
Posts: 2628 Threads: 40
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[COLOR="Sienna"]I agree. Maaaaaan, I think some of those ol' Eastern European sets are hella cool.....[/COLOR]

www.2ndending.com
Posted on 13 years ago
#7
Posts: 584 Threads: 189
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Blairndrums,compare to nowadays cheep sets come from east,yes they sound prety good,but this older Tacton had a slight incopatibility with Remo heads.For example,they counted in factory that 1"=25mm and for 14"tom it was 350mm,but 14" are actualy 355,6mm,and you had a problem that Remo head could not fit in hoop.For bass drum was never problem.It is hard to find them now,but as I mentioned,I think they were one ply with re rings

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Selling cymbals Made in Turkey

http://turkishcymbalserbia.weebly.com/
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
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I "true up"drums in a different manner-4 sheets of sandpaper stapled to a

20X 20 piece of finish plywood that has been checked for "perfect" flatness.Turn the drum by hand against the stapled sandpaper and it HAS to come out flat.Then make your edges by hand or with a router.

That Tacton set covering looks like the surface of Jupiter-WILD!

Posted on 13 years ago
#9
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From teverson-sr

I "true up"drums in a different manner-4 sheets of sandpaper stapled to a20X 20 piece of finish plywood that has been checked for "perfect" flatness.Turn the drum by hand against the stapled sandpaper and it HAS to come out flat.Then make your edges by hand or with a router.That Tacton set covering looks like the surface of Jupiter-WILD!

I do on snares and on shells that are really outta whack, but if they are just only like a hair out on bass and toms, I left the rods take care, but then I have this way of sanding. You have to watch me I guess. The process may seem not quite kosher, but the results speak volumes. I do true my shells, just not the same way everyone else does, always. If it's a snare though, I take all the time in the world to get it true.

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 13 years ago
#10
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