The adhesive they use is a latex/waterbased contact adhesive. I've used it many times before with good results. It seems to hold up better than the old type of contact cement and cleans up easier too. I have yet to find it locally though....precision's price isn't too bad though....much better than the tape method for permanent repairs I've found....x-mas3

Thanks very much Ludwig-dude!!!!!

[COLOR="DarkRed"]You CAN also use the DAP contact cement....the one which is glutinous and smells like airplane glue of yore. If applied correctly (both sides and adequate drying time) it works fine.

The Water-based 3M Precision stuff is easier to work with though. I agree, can't seem to find it locally here either...might be that internet purveyors have the market cornered on it. Depite the pricetag, it lasts a long time, one bottle....[/COLOR]

Thanks for the alternative , Jaye... I'm getting the itch to finish this repair, I may go get a small can of the DAP... I saw it locally, and order the 3M by phone from Precision on Monday.

Go Kevin! WalkingGo Kevin! WalkingGo Kevin!Walking

You will get that sweeeeet kit back up and singin' right nice. Glad to hear it. The repair is easy peasy rice and cheesy. When you get it done, PICS!!! I can't wait to see it. That is one of the few kits that I have pangs of regrets. It was oh so nice. Again...PICS!!!

...and if you can...Excitedyoutube.

I just re-covered a 1966 set of luddys with the 3M stuff from Precision. It works great and their Ludwig eyelets are PERFECT! I applied the glue to the covering and shells using a foam roller cover and then immediately smoothed it out with a foam brush to get rid of any air bubbles. Let it sit for 20-30 min and go for it. You've got about 4 hours of working time. I cut-off the excess black oyster with a utility knife and then used my wife's Olfa Rotary Cutter to get a perfect edge about 3/32" down from the bearing edge. BTW, the hardware store eyelet tool worked wonderfully. More pix to follow as soon as i get a correct rail consolette.

Awesome drumguy60 .... and, did no one notice I underlined the word small ( small can of the DAP ) in my post? I gave you guys first shot at saying it....so..... it's underlined 'cause.... A LITTLE DAP"L DO YA!!!! Laughing HLaughing H.... I should take that show on the road, huh.... waaaay outta town, huh .... maybe get lost and not return, huh??? OK, I'll shut up now... thanks for all your help, I need it... I'll get some pics up mcjnic

Dap Weldwood is what I use at my trim shop. It works wonderfully on drums also. I just finished restoring my 60's sonor teardrop kit. The floor tom and bass drum had a few spots where the wrap had turn loose at the seam. 1st I taped off the seam to keep from getting any excess glue on the wrap. Then I cleaned both surfaces with acetone and cleaned both surfaces I was glueing, to promote adheision. Then, I got a small foam paint brush and swabbed both surfaces pretty good. Then I stuck a few #2 pencils in the sean to keep both surfaces from touching each other till the glue dries. Pulled the tape off and pulled the pincels out and WALA! it stuck like "GLUE" Clean up with Xylene, it wont hurt the finish

By the way I had to heat up the one on the bass drum with a heat gun because it had a few little wrinkles. Heat does wonders on plastic.

Heres more pics of my glue job.