If the wrap on the PCS is not glued down you could take thee 3 drums and remove the wrap and save it incase you ever wanted to restore them plug the 2 bass drum holes and rewrap without glue the other 3 drums in WMP from presicion they have a good match wrap.... or you can buy a PCS floor tom and sell the wmp FT.... lots of choices....

Thanks for the reply, Mike.

The Champagne wrap is actually in decent condition, except for the two holes (obviously).

Hey scotty - You do have some choice here. I know that it will be hard, but don't do anything before you get some wrap samples (get a few different WMP's and the champagne as well, just to see for yourself how different it is). After that, you can make a more informed decision.

Now, if it were my kit, I'd adhere the champagne wrap back onto the drums, find a matching floor tom and sell the WMP floor tom when the time is right. The other thing I'd do is fill the holes in the bass drum (leave room for wrap) and find someone who might have a piece of champagne wrap that was removed from a junked drum and get a small swatch to patch up the holes on the bass drum. Just a little hint - the wrap sample you get from the wrap guys will do in the meantime until you find the peroid correct one that matches really well. Champagne sparkle is the bomb!

At the end of the day, they're your drums and the decision is yours. I think from a cost perspective, you'll be way further ahead and have a much rarer kit with original wraps if you stick with the champagne option - plus you'll still have a great original orphan floor tom to sell to offset costs. If you rewrap, you'll have a rewrapped player's kit and you'll be out way more cash. Sorry to rample on, just my $0.02.

I wish I would have taken pics when I last fixed bad seams like you have. Next time I will... anyway, here's what I did with some toms that were 1972 Ludwigs (3-ply w/rings, clear interiors):

1) Of course removed heads & rims, then the lugs on the seem.

2) With a common untility knife and putty knife, carefully seperated and lifted the enitre top part of the seam back from the seam about an inch and a half. BE CAREFUL AND GO SLOW as if the wrap may be brittle in places.

3) With the utility knife, clean away as much of the glue residue as possible, back about an inch from the seam (where it's not going to show).

4) Use the double-faced tape (available from Drummaker.com) all along the seam pressed on to the drum (the tape is about an inch wide). You'll need help keeping the wrap that you've peeled back held up out of the way.

5) Carefully place the peeled back wrap back down over the tape. Smooth down (starting in the middle & working out), then clamp down tight. I used a piece of 1x2 with 2 common c-clamps, covering the entire seam. I let it alone, clamped, for 24 hours (I don't really know how long it needs).

No glue residue using the tape. Hope that all made sense!

Bill

Many thanks for the replies/ideas everyone. I think I'm going to put these away, send for some wrap samples and just think on it for awhile.

The WMP FT has been posted in the Trade section.