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61 pioneer duco touch ups

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Hey guys, just got a 61 pioneer shell that is in really good condition, but there are a few spots where the finish is marred. what would you guys suggest using to touch up the finish and cover up the bared maple in those few spots? thanks for the help!

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Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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In my opinion, if you touched it up it would be even more noticeable than if you didn't. Just can't see recreating 50-year old painted surface even closely. maybe other have different ideas. But I think sometimes those battle scars give it the mojo.

Posted on 13 years ago
#2
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Rubbing some paste wax on the shell,letting it set 5 minutes,then buffing will make it shine like new!

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 13 years ago
#3
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From pjn1375

In my opinion, if you touched it up it would be even more noticeable than if you didn't. Just can't see recreating 50-year old painted surface even closely. maybe other have different ideas. But I think sometimes those battle scars give it the mojo.

i see what you're saying.. I might lust leave it alone, but I figured if I filled in ONLY the raw maple blotch with a darker shade, I'm still preserving the original finish and you wouldn't be able to tell from 5 feet away.

Posted on 13 years ago
#4
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Should you decide to accept this mission:

I believe that Duco was nitrocellulose lacquer.

Try Stewmac.com or guitar reranch for nitro lacquer, at least for the black part.

Experiment with something unimportant to get the color and application procedure right.

Good luck

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'56-'59 Slingerland BDP "Krupa Deluxe Ensemble"
DW Classics "Buddy Rich"
PDP CX
Various orphan shells and parts nearing critical mass
Posted on 13 years ago
#5
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From Lenos

Should you decide to accept this mission:I believe that Duco was nitrocellulose lacquer.Try Stewmac.com or guitar reranch for nitro lacquer, at least for the black part.Experiment with something unimportant to get the color and application procedure right.Good luckThis message will self destruct in 30 seconds

i found some nitro at stewmac for $17.99 + shipping. Only thing is I'd have a big can of lacquer minus 30 grams.. should I even thin of using a more common type of paint that may be sold in smaller quantities? thanks for the tip

Posted on 13 years ago
#6
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Paint has gotten weird lately , at least here in California. It now has to be made of potatoes and water soluable. (Kidding just a little).

Sometimes paint types are incompatible, some enamels may not play nice with some lacquers and vice versa.

Like the cleaners always say, try it out first on an inconspicuous area (good luck on a snare).

It's a risk no matter how you cut it. If coughing up $20.00 for a couple of grams of paint helps minimize the risk it's probably worth it.

'56-'59 Slingerland BDP "Krupa Deluxe Ensemble"
DW Classics "Buddy Rich"
PDP CX
Various orphan shells and parts nearing critical mass
Posted on 13 years ago
#7
Posts: 5550 Threads: 576
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i went to school for touch up of fine furniture pianos etc never used it except on my restorations if you dry match the color on sample paper ( buy dry i meant hair dryer etc )that's the only way to match a color if u get a powder pigments and a lacquer base in the sheen level u do a light blending with a small soft camel hair brush and then a another application of a clear coat in the sheen level if required and buff out with a finishers wax and it will look good from most angles 1 angle shows a shadow thats called a flippant when on a flat surface and since its on the side u should not have that problem ..goodluck

April 2nd 1969 scarfed pink champagne holly wood and 65/66 downbeat snare, and , supra same year very minty kit old pies
66/67 downbeat with canister
Super 400 small round knob
1967 super classic obp





once the brass ceases to glitter, and the drum looses its luster, and the stage remains dark, all you have left is the timbre of family.
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
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