Hi,
Recently bought a 22" ride on eBay that had a bad picture of the cymbal and stamp. Offered $100 and won. It didn't specify weight. Seems like a medium to me. Still have to weigh it. I guess it was fair. Sample of eBay pics (the 1st two) and actual pic of stamp and on Pearl kit.
D' Drummer
[COLOR="DarkRed"]The ubiquitous old A's....
Looks like a late '60's from the stamp and hammering.
Quite decent...$100 for a nice old 22"...that's never a bad deal, even with extra shipping. A vintage shop would price it at about $180-200 at least....
You can always sell it locally for what you paid, I am sure.
Does the edge wobble at all when you ride 'er ?????[/COLOR]
OK, first I had to look up the word ubiquitous!.... thanks, I guessed it was a 60's too but was unsure because of the blurry posted pic. So my judgement was pretty good after all as far as the $100.. When I first tried it I thought this thing was too heavy but it does wobble good and sounds decent after all. It cuts well and has an excellent bell. The 80's Pearl kit, I had given to my son so he'll have a ride now (instead of me taking the 50's stamp ride I used to keep there).
I do own a 20" Zildjian that I could probably use as a hammer (it's so heavy) that has a huge keyhole! I ended up taking a length of rubber hose that had the same ID and OD as those rubber inserts used for protecting the cymbal from keyhole-ing and just cut up several pieces...works great.
thanks for the reply.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Slightly off-topic, but I thought I'd mention it. theres a guy in LA who will lathe down cymbals for very cheap. His name is Matt Bettis and this is his website:
http://www.rarevintagecymbals.com/
I mean, by the time it's all done with shipping both ways, it may not be worth the $...but it is nice to know that someone exists who does a good job and doesn't charge hundreds of bucks for it.
For dramatic keyholes....I usually take a dremel to the hole and gently change it into a teardrop shape hole.
That cymbal sounds heavy, so the bell is probably pretty thick and you won't have anymore issues with the hole given the sleeve you have concocted.[/COLOR]
I think I'd like to try that some time for the heck of it. Lathe down a thick cymbal or try hammer'n on one. People have cracked cymbals w/sticks let alone me trying to hammer on one! I think lathing would be the first attempt. I have a friend that has a little shop that I may be able to try this. I have repaired cymbals with a cutoff wheel and an air/die grinder. This one had a couple small cracks from the edge working it's way into the cymbal. I run the cutoff wheel into a candle to coat it a little w/wax before grinding into the cymbal so it doesn't gum up with the copper/bronze alloys. It cuts like butter.
Here's a Zildjian hat I did more than a year ago and it's worked great ever since. Talk about gettin' some major chip!
I think I'd like to try that some time for the heck of it. Lathe down a thick cymbal or try hammer'n on one. People have cracked cymbals w/sticks let alone me trying to hammer on one! I think lathing would be the first attempt. I have a friend that has a little shop that I may be able to try this. I have repaired cymbals with a cutoff wheel and an air/die grinder. This one had a couple small cracks from the edge working it's way into the cymbal. I run the cutoff wheel into a candle to coat it a little w/wax before grinding into the cymbal so it doesn't gum up with the copper/bronze alloys. It cuts like butter.Here's a Zildjian hat I did more than a year ago and it's worked great ever since. Talk about gettin' some major chip!
Pure Costum! Group Sailing2
[COLOR="DarkRed"]THAT is the way to properly remove a crack....albeit not too pretty afterwards. But I bet she still sounds good.
DON'T try to cold-hammer a cymbal to alter its sound. Even with the right hammers and anvils...someone who isn't an absolute pro will crack the cymbal.
If you really wanna retune the cymbal...you either lathe it down to take of some weight from certain areas...or you have to cook it in the furnace and hot-hammer it.
Man..if I ever got my hands on a lathe and even a kiln or something....I'd go nuts with it.
Matt Bettis in LA has got that sh#t goin' big time...AND...he only started experimenting with it a couple of years ago..so he mastered it pretty quickly.
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Thanks Jaye..yeah it does still sound fine and has 100% air escape for that loud chip! Thanks for the tip on heating it up. Now the problem with heating it up could result in it's structural integrity. Not certain if it would harden or anneal it more and or could make it brittle or just ruin it sound wise? Would you try to instantly cool it after the adjustments or let it cool gradually? It definitely would be an experiment.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Well...maybe I would try it on a Sabian B8 or a ZBT...first Cool Dude
I actually dunno if it is quick-cooled or slowly annealed...there is an art to all of that stuff....
all I know is, I know a lotta folks who tried cold-hammering their cymbals and in more than 50% of the cases, they ruined 'em (cracked 'em).
Personally...I would just send it to Bettis. He's a nice guy and he loves talkin' cymbalmaking....[/COLOR]
