Only Admins can see this message.
Data Transition still in progress. Some functionality may be limited until the process is complete.
Processing Attachment, Gallery - 136.48434%

1940s Slingerland snare question

Loading...

I recently got a Slingerland snare from the 40s. The model I have was

called either a "Professional" or a "Student Radio King." It's a 7" x

14" and I love the sound.

I'm having an issue with the snare cord. There's not enough space

between the rim and the flesh hoop for the cord to go slack at all. In

other words, it keeps the throw off from throwing off. (It's not an

issue with the snare bed.) I'm wondering if any others have had a drum

like this and what they did about it. I suppose I could do one of these

things:

- Set the snare wire tension where I want it and accept the fact that

the throw off doesn't really work.

- File down the flesh hoop enough for the cord to move freely. I'm

thinking I'd only have to do this on the side with the throw off. This

is what the previous owner said he did.

- Look around for a snare side head that allows for this. I assume at

point at least somebody made a snare side head for a drum like this

that had a channel or something on the flesh hoop?

(If all or none of this makes sense, I'd be happy to post a photo showing what I'm talking asbout.)

Thanks,

John Fleck

Posted on 18 years ago
#1
Loading...

Let's see that photo, so I can get a better understanding of what you are talking about. I can picture it, but a visual would be nice.

Eye Ball

David

Webmaster

Posted on 18 years ago
#2
Posted on 18 years ago
#3
Posts: 5176 Threads: 188
Loading...

Well, first of all, I have never seen this problem before.

I am going to venture a couple of guesses here...

First of all, go to this site: http://www.rebeats.com and ask Rob Cook if there was an original CALFSKIN head for this type of drum/hoop. Mail him the pics. It's very possible that the old calfskin head that came on this drum originally (ALL drumheads were animal skins prior to the introduction of plastic heads in the mid-50's -I think) might have had a different profile than the modern metal one like you have on the drum now. I suspect that the original calfskin might have had a quarter-rounded WOOD flesh hoop that would allow that single-flange rim to work as it was intended. Or, maybe there was some kind of a groove routed in the original flesh hoops to allow clearnace.

If it were my drum and one that I was planning on gigging with, I might just take off that original bottom rim and store it and use a more conventional version. Single flange rims ARE still available. I always think it's better to avoid taking a file to a drum that's managed to survive so long and as intact as yours. ANY "crude" alteration will greatly diminish the collectability/value. Ther ARE other ways, my friend! :)

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 18 years ago
#4
Loading...

Thanks, I'll try Rebeats.

I was actually talking about filing down the flesh hoop of the head in that area, not the rim itself. I'd never do that!

John

Posted on 18 years ago
#5
Posts: 5176 Threads: 188
Loading...

Oh. That makes more sense. Sorry, I misunderstood.

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 18 years ago
#6
Loading...

Here's another bit of info. A snare identical to mine from the Slingerland 1941 catalog. Doesn't there appear to be a dip in the flesh hoop on the snare side?

http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_1941.jpg

John

P.S. Rob at Rebeats had never encountered this situation before. He suggested trying a Remo or Ludwig marching snare side head as they have less of a collar.

Posted on 18 years ago
#7
Loading...

O.k. thanks for the pics. I would also think a number of factors regarding that single flange hoop could be at play.

They are more flexible and tend to not sit correctly over time. Also, you can change the snare chord to something much thinner.

I really like the Puresound blue wire and it is extremely durable and very thin. Some puratins prefer a white looking chord then the Puresound blue.

I have one laying around my store that I can send in an envelope if you want.

Rob is a member on this forum and has a good suggestion with the different head choice.

As suggested by O-lugs changing the hoop is also another good idea if the drum is a gigging drum.

David

Webmaster

Posted on 18 years ago
#8
Loading...

I have what appears to be the same or at least very similar drum (different finish). Anyhow I clearly see what you are talking about on your photos. On my drum the clearance is very minimal but enough to allow the throw-off to work. My snare head is a Remo Ambassador. Have you tried one of those? Sorry no photos available at this time.

Posted on 18 years ago
#9
Posts: 5176 Threads: 188
Loading...

Quoted post

Here's another bit of info. A snare identical to mine from the Slingerland 1941 catalog. Doesn't there appear to be a dip in the flesh hoop on the snare side?http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_1941.jpgJohnP.S. Rob at Rebeats had never encountered this situation before. He suggested trying a Remo or Ludwig marching snare side head as they have less of a collar.

I just checked my 40's-era Leedy marching snare drum. It also has an OLD calfskin head with a quarter round wooden flesh hoop and...

YES! The old wooden flesh hoop DOES have an intentionally-contoured area that allows the snare (wires, themselves, in this case) to pass through.

Thanks for your post. I learned something new as a result of it! :)

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 18 years ago
#10
  • Share
  • Report
Action Another action Something else here