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1930s Slingerland Professional - Wrap project

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Hello,

This is my first post, so please go easy on me.

I received a drum the other day.

By the book, it appears to be a Slingerland 8-lug, single-ply Professional, (tube lugs), 3-point strainer (1935 or so.).

The only thing that doesn’t work for this is that it has a WMP wrap – not a catalog option.

[Attachment: 59731] [Attachment: 59735]

The wrap was in really bad shape. More than just the normal abrasion of the wrap where the heads made contact with the bearing edges.

In addition to this, the single flange rim would not fit. It was not really out-of-round.

I tried a double flange RK (8-hole) – still no luck.

After re-checking the drum shell for “in-round-ness” (maybe 1/16th off), and seeing some evidence of over-spray on the top re-rings of the shell, I was very curious about the actual thickness of the wrap as being the culprit.

I did not really like the idea of pulling the wrap from the shell to see what was underneath – maybe several paint coatings, or a bad re-glue job – but I didn’t think that I had much choice.

With careful application of heat from a hair dryer, I was able to pull the wrap from the drum.

As I am not familiar with the process of creating the wrap, I can only describe what I saw.

When I pulled the wrap with the help of a long flat dull knife, as a substitute for a spatula, I was able to separate the wrap from the drum. Left behind, both on the drum and the wrap was evidence of several coats of paint.

The outermost coat was (antique) white, below that, several areas of a deep blue, and below that, one or two brown coats.

[Attachment: 59736] [Attachment: 59737] [Attachment: 59738]

The wrap had “smokey” streams running in a horizontal pattern around the drum.

Having the (antique) white backing made for a pretty nice white pearl-like effect.

Questions.

Is this a Professional snare that received a make-over (or two) over the course of years?

I noticed that the re-rings and the bearing edges appear to be “composite” or two pieces.

Is this typical for 1930s Slingerland drums?

Also, if someone would fill me in on the wrap process back in the early years, I’d really appreciate it.

Thank you very much.

R-

Larry

Posted on 11 years ago
#1
Posts: 3467 Threads: 116
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Welcome

I think you need to re post in another thread.. You have created a Poll here which is a little confusing.. Start a new thread under Restoring Vintage Drums Section, Then delete this poll..

(You can copy and paste to the new thread)

Cheers

'77 Slingerland 51N,Super Rock 24,18,14,13.. COW 8,10 Concert toms
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Posted on 11 years ago
#2
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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Yes your drum was re worked, looks like a couple times too.

If you mean the rings being plied, yes that was common too.

Is it 14"x 6 1/2" ?

The inside is gonna clean up nice.

How good is the condition of the stick throw ? (can`t see it)

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 11 years ago
#3
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Thanks OddBall,

If by "stick throw," you mean the extension -- its there -- a bit pitted, with the Slingerland stamp.

[Attachment: 59758]

Also Yes on the 14"x 6 1/2."

Any ideas about how to deal with the wrap? Not sure if this is a Slingerland pattern, or if this was available during that era.

Catalogs show Mahogany and Walnut coverings, I believe.

R-

1 attachments
Posted on 11 years ago
#4
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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Yes, that`s what I meant. It` look serviceable and working. The badge appears to have the small grommet and be their first, but I can`t see much of it to tell.

Now about the shell. Some brown cloth work gloves, and a medium sized brand new kitchen sponge. Beach towel, and various sandpapers from 60 grit to 200. Fold the towel and lay it on table, Christmas wrap the DRY sponge in 60 grit . Set drum on towel and in the direction of the circle, wax on wax off. By the time you finish the outer side, you`ll have the touch to do the inside.

Decide when you`re done, clear finish, paint/lacquer, or wrap.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 11 years ago
#5
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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If you have access to a machine lathe, spin it and hold the paper on the top going side to side slowly. On the inside, go with the spin, it`ll clean well.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 11 years ago
#6
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Personally I'd take some paint stripper to the outside. Those old lacquers usually come off pretty cleanly with the Jasco stripper, glues too for that matter. Rinse with mineral spirits, and then lightly scuff with 220 sand paper by hand. That should be a good place to leave it for a wrap job. Sand through finer grits for a lacquer finish.

I'd hesitate taking all that gunk off with sand paper only. I think you'll remove more of the original wood than you want to that way.

If it were my drum I'd think about leaving the inside patina alone.

If you use the stripper make sure to tape off any areas you don't want to strip with masking tape before you get started. That includes any holes from the inside.

Good luck, thats beautiful drum, and should be a fun project!

65 Ludwig Club Date Champagne
66 Ludwig Club Date Red Sparkle + 16' and Pioneer
66 Ludwig acrolite
67 Ludwig supra with bowties!
Posted on 11 years ago
#7
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Hi Oddball,

Thanks for that.

The various coats seem to be brittle enough, that if I look at them too hard, they will come off.

After that, I was going to seal the maple-ply and find a nice mohogany or walnut veneer and apply it (what's a good glue/sealant to do this?)

This of course after re-gluing the bearing edges to the outer ply -- I'll have to ensure the drum is clamped in-round" before I do that.

Regarding the veneer, would you have any pics that I could check for color and grain?

Best-

Posted on 11 years ago
#8
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Jbones1,

Thank you. I think the old layers will come off fairly easily.

As far as the inside goes, I will probably wipe everything down with some mineral spirits, especially the over-spray.

I will plug the holes with a DAP sealant before I wash/wipe down the shell.

Any ideas on the appropriate veneer to use to bring it back to era?

I appreciate the help.

Best-

Posted on 11 years ago
#9
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I'd say skip the veneer...

As I see it the veneer is just never going to be "to vintage spec"

You have a single ply shell there, so you could sand and clear coat the maple. Or wrap in a suitable wrap for the era. Or Lacquer it an color fitting with the era.

Just on man's opinion. ;)

65 Ludwig Club Date Champagne
66 Ludwig Club Date Red Sparkle + 16' and Pioneer
66 Ludwig acrolite
67 Ludwig supra with bowties!
Posted on 11 years ago
#10
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