Hello all,

I have a couple of pretty standard and probably laughable questions, but thought I'd ask the more experienced people on here before really screwing up and then regretting not asking.

What is the recommended overlap when wrapping a drum? I was calculating all of the circumferences of my drums and almost forgot that there has to be an allowance added for the overlap.

Also, does the glue go on the entire shell, or just the overlap?

Lug holes are drilled from inside out first, then outside in?

Is the 3M Fastbond 30-NF Neutral Contact Adhesive pretty much the standard and recommended adhesive?

Sorry for all the questions, pretty nervous about doing this for the first time and a little paranoid about @&#% it all up. I know that wrap seems to be a pretty popular subject on here especially with newbies like me. Is there a complete drum wrap link or explanation/tutorial on here? I find answers to certain questions but not to all.

Thank you for any advice/info you may be able to throw my way.

Regards.

1. Use a 2" overlap
2. Yes glue the entire shell and the back of the wrap.
3 Scuff the back of the wrap with steel wool so the glue has something to grab onto.
4. use a block of wood when you drill from the inside out so you don't lift the wrap when putting pressure on it.
5. Yes the 3M glue is the standard.

> What is the recommended overlap when wrapping a drum?

1" is fine. Set it up so the edge of the overlap lands under a set of lugs at the back of the drum. Do a dry run first to determine where you need to start the wrap in order to have the seam fall under a set of lugs.

>Also, does the glue go on the entire shell, or just the overlap?

3M is 'contact cement.' You'll need to coat the entire shell, the back of the wrap piece and the overlap. Wait until tack-dry, then apply the wrap using a counter-top laminate roller to press it down.

>Lug holes are drilled from inside out first, then outside in?

I use a fine punch to make a starter hole, then a drill bit to open it up.

> Is the 3M Fastbond 30-NF Neutral Contact Adhesive pretty much the standard and recommended adhesive?

Yes, highly recommended.

>pretty nervous about doing this for the first time and a little paranoid about @&#% it all up.

No need to worry, not that difficult a project. Just be real careful, take your time, and pay attention to detail. It'll come out great. Lots of guys take the project on and do very well with it. Ask questions along the way if you get stuck.

Best of luck and I'd like to see some 'before' and 'after' photos please.

John

What Purdie says.. about the width of a lug is best..tends to hide the seam a bit..and if its 2 pieces (Eg.BD), Lap the top over the bottom piece at both ends... (so as you are not looking down into the seam from the upright aspect)..


Cheers

Thank you very much to all three of you, really appreciate all your great advice. You also mentioned things that I had forgot to ask (where the seam should go, scuffing the back of the wrap, using the block of wood, lapping the top piece OVER the bottom of the BD and not the other way around).

Will keep this for future reference,
I won't be tackling this project just yet, but will definitely post before and after shots when I do get to it.

Thank you all again.

Sorry one question that just occurred to me.

As far as getting the eyelet off - pliers or grind it off from the inside as to not damage the badge? Or is there another way? Haven't ever done that either.

Thanks very much.

DON`T USE A GRINDER.

Use a drill bit slightly larger than the grommet. Put the bit into the drill chuck and tighten it down, then without plugging the drill in, from the inside, rotate the drill collet by hand around and around until the drill goes through the grommet. Then push it out from the inside, save the grommet to compare when buying a new one !!

Digging at the wood or badge is a no-no, the drill will not leave any mark, unless you use power, so remember, no power, hand rotate !!